Talented chef Ken Vedrinski hopes to continue his love affair with all things Italian and homey with his next restaurant, Trattoria Lucca, scheduled to open sometime in late June.
The decorated chef has never been further removed from his once ultra-fancy, classic Woodland's roots or even from his moderately fancy Italian roots at his current Daniel Island restaurant, Sienna. Lucca will take him closer to his simple, familial, Italian inspirations than ever before and at markedly lower price points he hopes will appeal to a broad base of individuals in search of well-prepared, Tuscan style fare.
The chef and his young team, including Sienna pastry chef Caitlin Kelly (who will double as pastry chef at Lucca) and general manager Adam Verona, recently gathered to give a small group of food journalists a sneak preview of things soon to come at Lucca. Situated in the heart of a well-seasoned, residential neighborhood just off the Crosstown at the corner of Ashe and Bogard, Vedrinski envisions it as a place where people can walk and wind their way through the streets of Charleston to find a secret, neighborhood surprise "with the best olive oil in town," just as you might in the town of Lucca, Italy that inspired the new restaurant's name.
Seating will be intimate, with all of 52 covers and a small bar and no-reservations-required community table. Tables and chairs will be movable to invite spontaneous seating innovations as needed. Like the tables, the menu will revolve to reflect the season, availability and inspiration, but will be categorized under three sections: Antipasti, Primi and Secondi courses, with prices (on the preview menu) ranging from just $6-$18. The initial menu includes the likes of Grilled Endive with Pecorino, Ruganso (Sicilian Sheep Cheese) with Tuscan Wild Flower Honey, and Grilled Painted Hills Hanger Steak with Warm Owls Nest Heirloom Tomato Salad, Gorgonzola, Arugula Salad, Vin Cotto.
The signature Sunday event will be Lucca's Family Supper Sundays where Vedrinski and his team will offer two seatings of a pre-established menu. The plan is to keep filling every empty bowl until participants cry uncle, or simply burst with pasta joy. The restaurant's warm beige, off-white and gray/green tones are the brainchild of local designer Heather Wilson.
The slightly mysterious location, to those not terribly familiar with the neighborhood, is actually quite simple to find. Most serendipitously, I found literal directions while conducting a research lunch just an hour before the scheduled Lucca preview at nearby Alluette's Cafe. Owner Alluette Jones just happened to hand me a write-up on one of her long-defunct restaurants, The Patio Tea Room, to peruse while dining. In addition to a colorful description of Alluette and The Patio, the article directed interested diners to take King Street to Spring Street, take a left onto Spring, and take a right on Ashe to Bogard, just a block down. This was indeed the exact same location of what is now (or soon to be Lucca). Talk about serious kismet! Let's hope it graces the doors of Lucca, as it apparently did The Patio, which Vedrinski tells me was once the haunt of Al Sharpton and other civil rights notables while they were visiting Charleston.
Look for further details on the precise opening date, telephone number, web site and hours of operation as they surface.
Trattoria Lucca
41-A Bogard Street, downtown
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Back In Action
I've been admittedly remiss updating this blog for the past two months, but it's not because the Charleston food scene is quiet - far from it. Instead, it's because I was very busy finishing and editing the farmers' market cookbook (see Holly Herrick's Southern Slow Food link on the home page for more on this) to meet my June 1 deadline.
It's now safely in the publisher's hands in the process of becoming a book, which is exciting, especially because the farmers shared so much wonderful information and stories with me along our 7-month research and writing journey. Now that it's submitted, I'm thrilled to be able to jump back into the Charleston restaurant scene (and this blog) with renewed vigor as I start to further research my next cookbook. Without providing too much advance information, suffice to say, it will be about Charleston's great restaurants (and provide some of their select recipes) and the city's unique cultural and culinary ingredients, attributes, charms and eccentricities.
It's now safely in the publisher's hands in the process of becoming a book, which is exciting, especially because the farmers shared so much wonderful information and stories with me along our 7-month research and writing journey. Now that it's submitted, I'm thrilled to be able to jump back into the Charleston restaurant scene (and this blog) with renewed vigor as I start to further research my next cookbook. Without providing too much advance information, suffice to say, it will be about Charleston's great restaurants (and provide some of their select recipes) and the city's unique cultural and culinary ingredients, attributes, charms and eccentricities.
Monday, May 12, 2008
McCrady's Mother's Day Magic
It's been too long, way too long, since I've visited McCrady's. This was my concrete conclusion upon returning home yesterday after savoring a deliriously delicious Mother's Day repast of mystic proportions at impossibly modest prices. Executive chef Sean Brock has proven himself time and time again as a master of all things delicious, beautiful and local. But, to savor the gorgeous goods in the quiet calm of a Sunday afternoon while celebrating an occasion as important as Mother's Day, was a rare and special treat, indeed. And, to put together an ample selection of specialties in three course categories (First Course, Main Course and Dessert Course) for just $50 (tax and gratuity not included), was icing on the proverbial (and ambrosial in pastry chef Winburn Carmack's hands) cake.
At just 2:30 in the afternoon (one of several seatings offered throughout day and into the night), we were greeted by the host and our server with a friendly and most proper "good evening." After saying it for a second time, our server apologized, saying, "Sorry, I'm just so used to working at night." The ensuing two hours of flawless (save a slightly tepid lobster bisque and tired bread) culinary decadence and seamless service, however, offered no cause for reproach, but merely the highest praise.
Sous vide wizardry and hyper precision aside, Brock and Carmack both excel in their artistic theme and visual interpretations of classic preparations and flavor combinations. The results, as in the brilliant spring color palette of the West Coast Halibut with Langston Progress Peas, Carrot Confit, Crispy Pancetta and gorgeous bars of crunchy-topped chocolate tart prepared with Nutella and silky fudge ice cream, were simultaneously fun and sexy. Truly art on a plate, I more than once resisted the urge to break into each fetching presentation, though on each occasion was more than happy I did.
The staff here is to be heralded for going all out on a special occasion without exploiting sensitive budgets on a day where most everyone wants to do the best they can do for Mom . It would be easy to slink into mediocrity during a long afternoon of food production, but Brock and Co. took the high road for a fare price. We, including the guest of honor that was beside herself with the unbridled joy of the experience, were all the better for it.
I just wish it could be Mother's Day everyday at McCrady's. I'll be back the next time a celebration of any day is in order, and it won't be near as long this time. McCrady's makes dining and life feel like a genuine celebration of beauty and goodness.
McCrady's
2 Unity Alley, downtown
(843) 577-0025
Mon.-Thus., 5:30-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.
http://www.mccradysrestaurant.com/
At just 2:30 in the afternoon (one of several seatings offered throughout day and into the night), we were greeted by the host and our server with a friendly and most proper "good evening." After saying it for a second time, our server apologized, saying, "Sorry, I'm just so used to working at night." The ensuing two hours of flawless (save a slightly tepid lobster bisque and tired bread) culinary decadence and seamless service, however, offered no cause for reproach, but merely the highest praise.
Sous vide wizardry and hyper precision aside, Brock and Carmack both excel in their artistic theme and visual interpretations of classic preparations and flavor combinations. The results, as in the brilliant spring color palette of the West Coast Halibut with Langston Progress Peas, Carrot Confit, Crispy Pancetta and gorgeous bars of crunchy-topped chocolate tart prepared with Nutella and silky fudge ice cream, were simultaneously fun and sexy. Truly art on a plate, I more than once resisted the urge to break into each fetching presentation, though on each occasion was more than happy I did.
The staff here is to be heralded for going all out on a special occasion without exploiting sensitive budgets on a day where most everyone wants to do the best they can do for Mom . It would be easy to slink into mediocrity during a long afternoon of food production, but Brock and Co. took the high road for a fare price. We, including the guest of honor that was beside herself with the unbridled joy of the experience, were all the better for it.
I just wish it could be Mother's Day everyday at McCrady's. I'll be back the next time a celebration of any day is in order, and it won't be near as long this time. McCrady's makes dining and life feel like a genuine celebration of beauty and goodness.
McCrady's
2 Unity Alley, downtown
(843) 577-0025
Mon.-Thus., 5:30-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.
http://www.mccradysrestaurant.com/
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Looking Through a Glass Onion
"Well, here's another place you can go... Listen to me."
Lennon and McCartney were right on when they penned these lyrics for The Beatle's venerable White Album classic, Glass Onion. Forty years later, these words still ring true, especially in the context of the newly opened Glass Onion restaurant in West Ashley. Now a month-old, The Glass Onion, situated in what was formerly an ugly book exchange shop on what is still a relatively ugly stretch of Savannah Highway, is putting the Fab Fours' tune to incredibly delicious culinary music, in a most modern way. It is definitely another place you can go, and one you should go to, too, if you seek across-the-board exceptionally fresh, reasonably priced and delicious food.
The folks here are not necessarily "fixing a hole in the ocean" as the psychedelic song goes, but The Glass Onion is well on its way to casting a brighter shade of green upon the Charleston localvore dining and all-important ancillary local farming scenes. Their web site outlines their commitment to buying locally and seasonally - "We strongly believe in the importance of eating seasonally, locally and naturally. So, you can expect all natural meats, local seafood and vegetables from as close to home as we can get."
The restaurant's timely and relevant creed is backed up with the seasonally revolving, Southern-inspired "soulful food" menu rife with tantalizing, homey promise in dishes like Miss Kimberly's Shrimp with Beans and Rice ($12), Grilled Pimento Cheese Overstuffed Sandwich ($6) and Fried Chicken Livers with Bibb Lettuce (Big, $8, Little $5).
The menu mood is decidedly country Southern, with serious nods to New Orleans and the Lowcountry. It's a logical composition since the restaurant's young owners (Charles Vincent, Chris Stewart and Sarah O'Kelley) hail from New Orleans, Birmingham, and Georgia, respectively. The trio found each other at FIG, where Stewart landed a job as sous chef while Vincent was working there. After a two year-long search and a long-established dream to open their own restaurant, they put their mutual fine-dining backgrounds (which include working with the likes of Emeril) to use to make "mid-scale comfort food," found the space at 1219 Savannah Highway, and set up shop.
The space is bright and uncluttered with a large, open counter to place orders. Several picnic tables are situated outside to invite alfresco dining. The restaurant employs a handy system to pair orders with their owners once the food comes up from the kitchen. Pictures of celebrities - from Jackie O to Miss Piggy - are affixed to clear, plastic stands and placed on your table. The celeb's name (in my case, Einstein!) is written on your order ticket and a clear-visioned spotter then tracks the corresponding picture down and delivers the food. It's a much better system than those pesky buzzers, and infinitely more personal. The food came quickly and with a smile, despite the fact the restaurant was serving a nearly full house the day I visited.
Lennon and McCartney were right on when they penned these lyrics for The Beatle's venerable White Album classic, Glass Onion. Forty years later, these words still ring true, especially in the context of the newly opened Glass Onion restaurant in West Ashley. Now a month-old, The Glass Onion, situated in what was formerly an ugly book exchange shop on what is still a relatively ugly stretch of Savannah Highway, is putting the Fab Fours' tune to incredibly delicious culinary music, in a most modern way. It is definitely another place you can go, and one you should go to, too, if you seek across-the-board exceptionally fresh, reasonably priced and delicious food.
The folks here are not necessarily "fixing a hole in the ocean" as the psychedelic song goes, but The Glass Onion is well on its way to casting a brighter shade of green upon the Charleston localvore dining and all-important ancillary local farming scenes. Their web site outlines their commitment to buying locally and seasonally - "We strongly believe in the importance of eating seasonally, locally and naturally. So, you can expect all natural meats, local seafood and vegetables from as close to home as we can get."
The restaurant's timely and relevant creed is backed up with the seasonally revolving, Southern-inspired "soulful food" menu rife with tantalizing, homey promise in dishes like Miss Kimberly's Shrimp with Beans and Rice ($12), Grilled Pimento Cheese Overstuffed Sandwich ($6) and Fried Chicken Livers with Bibb Lettuce (Big, $8, Little $5).
The menu mood is decidedly country Southern, with serious nods to New Orleans and the Lowcountry. It's a logical composition since the restaurant's young owners (Charles Vincent, Chris Stewart and Sarah O'Kelley) hail from New Orleans, Birmingham, and Georgia, respectively. The trio found each other at FIG, where Stewart landed a job as sous chef while Vincent was working there. After a two year-long search and a long-established dream to open their own restaurant, they put their mutual fine-dining backgrounds (which include working with the likes of Emeril) to use to make "mid-scale comfort food," found the space at 1219 Savannah Highway, and set up shop.
The space is bright and uncluttered with a large, open counter to place orders. Several picnic tables are situated outside to invite alfresco dining. The restaurant employs a handy system to pair orders with their owners once the food comes up from the kitchen. Pictures of celebrities - from Jackie O to Miss Piggy - are affixed to clear, plastic stands and placed on your table. The celeb's name (in my case, Einstein!) is written on your order ticket and a clear-visioned spotter then tracks the corresponding picture down and delivers the food. It's a much better system than those pesky buzzers, and infinitely more personal. The food came quickly and with a smile, despite the fact the restaurant was serving a nearly full house the day I visited.
The personalized mood continued throughout and perhaps most importantly, in the food itself. Local, fresh flavor and a love and knowledge of Southern cooking sang through virtually every bite. The House made Pickles ($2, or one of four side choices for $7) are made of snappy cukes, red peppers and onions in a mild, sweet brine that spend a night in the cooler only to emerge as fresh as daisies. Similarly, the Roasted Garlic Potato Gratin, composed of tight layers of whisper-thin potatoes wobbling with frailty in creamery-fresh cream and sweet, roasted garlic, and subtle, luscious White Beans and Rice sides, were impeccably executed and impeccably infused with authentic, rural Southern spirit.
O'Kelley told me the restaurant buys their Bibb lettuce, cucumbers and tomatoes from Kurios Farms in Moncks Corner. I assert they need to keep that up! The Glass Onions Bibb Lettuce salad is arguably one of the most simply beautiful things I have ever had the pleasure of eating. Served on chunky, off-white plates (like all the food here) that recall diners of yesteryear, the pale and lime-green leaves were opened like a flower seeking the sun and generously (but not overly) topped with a creamy/tart black peppercorn buttermilk dressing that rivals any truly house made salad dressing I've ever had, let alone in Charleston.
After the stellar starter debut, I was a tad disappointed with Stew's Meatball Po Boy ($8), finding the texture of the meatballs a bit on the mushy side. The flavor of the marina and girth of the thick, oven-warm and toasty baguette were spot on, however, and there is no topping the tender Root Beer Glazed Pork Belly ($12) served with sweet collards and toothsome Anson Mills grits.
"Locals don't let locals eat imported shrimp," one of several green-themed bumper stickers posted on the small refrigerator behind the small order-taking counter implores. Indeed, I contend that locals (or anyone) must not waste another precious minute to take a big bite out of The Glass Onion. Reasonably priced, locally grown and delicious, Southern "soulful" food doesn't come along every day, especially with free and ample parking. The restaurant's menu is updated daily on the web site listed below.
The Glass Onion
1219 Savannah Highway, West Ashley
(843) 225-1717
Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Sat., brunch, 10 a.m.-4 -p.m.
www.ilovetheglassonion.com
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Sizzlin' Bacon and Cercie Surprises
Recently, I found myself at Carolina's to share an easy Sunday dinner and a birthday celebration with friends. Since this wasn't a working dinner, per se, I didn't go into it with the requisite review perspective. However, I came out of it with some distinct impressions and some new information that I want to share.
Firstly, Carolina's, which was not so long ago stumbling clumsily along in the food department, has truly stepped up to a pristine plate of restrained, gorgeous Southern-inspired cooking in the capable hands of executive chef Jeremiah Bacon. In just over a year, this Charleston native and CIA grad has transformed Carolina's once again into the belle of Charleston's culinary ball with stunning dishes such as Laquered Bacon with Sauteed Cabbage and a Carrot Puree ($9) and Glazed Quail with Bacon Hominy, Ragged Jack Collard Greens and Black-Eyed Pea Relish ($10).
More than impressed with his cooking, I hope he soon gets the public recognition for the grand work he has privately forged in his kitchen.
Though I was aware that the restaurant started serving lunch in early February, I wasn't aware they offer a most appealing special on Sunday and Monday evenings (1/2 off bottles of wine $75 and under and 30% off bottles over $75). This is a soothing break during these tough economic times and one that cut our bill, literally, in half. "It's one of those things that's advertised in email blasts and something that locals and regulars know about," says Bacon.
In addition, frugal diners can look to a 1/2 price bar menu on Monday - Friday from 5 -6:30 p.m. where Carolina's justifiably celebrated Shrimp and Crabmeat Wontons and burgers (among other things) can both be had for just $6.
Carolina's
10 Exchange Street, downtown
(843) 724-3800
http://www.carolinasrestaurant.com/
Firstly, Carolina's, which was not so long ago stumbling clumsily along in the food department, has truly stepped up to a pristine plate of restrained, gorgeous Southern-inspired cooking in the capable hands of executive chef Jeremiah Bacon. In just over a year, this Charleston native and CIA grad has transformed Carolina's once again into the belle of Charleston's culinary ball with stunning dishes such as Laquered Bacon with Sauteed Cabbage and a Carrot Puree ($9) and Glazed Quail with Bacon Hominy, Ragged Jack Collard Greens and Black-Eyed Pea Relish ($10).
More than impressed with his cooking, I hope he soon gets the public recognition for the grand work he has privately forged in his kitchen.
Though I was aware that the restaurant started serving lunch in early February, I wasn't aware they offer a most appealing special on Sunday and Monday evenings (1/2 off bottles of wine $75 and under and 30% off bottles over $75). This is a soothing break during these tough economic times and one that cut our bill, literally, in half. "It's one of those things that's advertised in email blasts and something that locals and regulars know about," says Bacon.
In addition, frugal diners can look to a 1/2 price bar menu on Monday - Friday from 5 -6:30 p.m. where Carolina's justifiably celebrated Shrimp and Crabmeat Wontons and burgers (among other things) can both be had for just $6.
Carolina's
10 Exchange Street, downtown
(843) 724-3800
http://www.carolinasrestaurant.com/
Saturday, March 8, 2008
Farmers' Market Road Trip
Sorry it's been so long! I'm up in North Carolina combing farmers' markets to research the upcoming Southern Slow Food book I'm writing. I'll be back in Charleston soon with restaurant updates. Look for them soon. I might just be telling you about something I've tracked down in this charming neck of the woods. Best until next! Holly
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Gotta' Getcha' Geechee
It is tragic that a region built on rice and the Gullah foods and customs born of Africa's "Rice Coast" has so little to show for it in our present-day culture, particularly our restaurant food culture. The language, once so prominently ringing through the streets of Charleston and the marshes of Lowcountry barrier islands, has dwindled to an ebbing murmur of days past. The food, characterized by rice, lima beans and other native African ingredients is still around, but mostly dapples restaurant menus as opposed to fully showcasing them, unless you count (once again) "soul food" restaurants.
Alluette's Cafe is the latest ode to local soul food, but owner Alluette Jones-Smalls throws a surprising twist into the usual soul food equation. Alluette's is "holistic" serving "fresh, local organic produce and dry goods when available". In addition, as the menu states, all meats are "free of hormones, nitrates, artificial color and sulfites." Rice and soy milk are the restaurant's accepted substitutes for dairy. There is one more thing. Alluette's does not serve or cook with pork.
What? No pig in a soul food joint? How can this be, you might ask. I asked Alluette myself when I entered the recently opened restaurant on a sunny afternoon; the light casting a pink hue on the coral, cinder-block walls like a sunset on winter marsh grasses. Her resisitance to cooking with pork (and pairing certain foods) does go back to religion, but not because she's Muslim as I'd clumsily implied in my awkward query. It has to do with the teachings of the book of Leviticus from the Old Testament of the bible. She told me so. I researched it after returning home from a soulful and savory lunch here and learned that eating pork and other divided-hoofed animals that do not chew their cud is listed as off-limits in Chapter 11 for various reasons that essentielly relate to respecting the body, spirituality and God.
Whatever your beliefs (or Alluette's) on such matters, there is no doubt that she is committed to preparing body-friendly foods and has been granted the talent (along with executive chef Absalom Thomas) to make it taste divine. Originally from Mount Pleasant, Jones-Smalls recently sold a successful restaurant on St. Helena island near Beaufort to set up shop in this understated setting situated smack dab in the middle of the up-and-coming Midtown area of the peninsula, because, as she told me, "Charleston is where I need to be right now."
She's re-roosted in a big way. The restaurant is far from fancy. The small is space dominated with an eclectic array of mis-matched tables and chairs and a huge blackboard posting the days specials for breakfast, lunch and dinner; all this flanked by a rundown looking courtyard with a tattered link fence. Still, it's attractive, clean, absolutely homey, appropriate and intelligent. Regarding the latter, I'd far rather see a small, family run business sink their funds into the food as opposed to the sometimes suffocating overhead of fancier digs.
That's what Alluette's does. The investment is in the food, the preparation and the startling friendly and sincere staff, beginning with Alluette's firm handshake, hello and introduction she offers her guests upon arrival. When she's not doing that, she's standing behind a small window in a small kitchen whisking and stirring myriad pots and bowls, seemingly sprinkling them with the pixie dust of Geechee culinary magic. The food is so clean and pure tasting, you don't even miss the pig, even in the collards which seemed infused with a blend of seasonings you might otherwise taste in dill pickles.
But, there's no telling, at least not from Alluette. She doesn't share her recipes, according to our maternally warm server. That includes the magical mystery tea ($1.80 per glass) that is blended with a series of fresh fruit juices (no sugar added!) and served over plenty of ice. I thought I sensed a mix of mango, papaya and apricot in just the right amount blended into my delicious brew that just kept coming whenever I said the word and even when I didn't.
Alluette buys her vegetables locally from Joseph Fields and also is loyal to St. Helena Island purveyor, Barefoot Farms. The freshness of Lowcountry produce burst through every ounce of the fresh baby lima bean soup ($4.50, cup) and the tomato-based fish stew ($5, cup). I particularly appreciated the former which, in its clean, savory broth and 100% lima bean purity, was quintessentiel simplicity seasoned only with salt and a dash of cayenne pepper provided on the table. Only talented chefs with devotion to fresh produce can make something so simple and pure taste so good without getting heavy-handed. Put this one on your must-order list. The fish stew's high notes were in the veggies - threads of spinach, chunks of carrots, sweet tomatoes - all brought together with fresh bites of basil.
"Baked Chicken" ($9.95) with one side (the aforementioned collards) seems like an overly-humble misnomer for this juicy, wholesome rendition of thyme-seasoned perfection. This just spoke to my heart and made me think of easier, simpler times. The feel-good, taste-delicious mood carried over to the Angus steak sandwich special (8.95), layered with 1/4" thick slices of pure beef, tangy cheddar cheese, a warm, caramelized red onion, and slivers of yellow peppers on a chewy, toasted baguette. This was served with a small cup of a tangy/sweet, crunchy slaw peppered with celery seed and a crisp, cold pickle.
Unlike a lot of soul food restaurants where food (though delicious) can feel heavy, I left Alluette's Cafe feeling light and satisfied. My belly was comfortably full and my soul was happy. I felt like I had made a solid investment in time well-spent. Speaking of time, keep in mind that it's not hurried, and at times may feel a little slow if you're not accustomed to food being cooked to order as it is here. Be patient. You'll be glad you did.
Brand new, Alluette's is still working out the kinks on little things (like a non-functioning credit card machine the day I was there), but gets almost everything right. In the future, the restaurant plans to offer cooking classes and serve alcohol. For now, settle into some of that tea and have a good ole' holistic Geechee good time. I'm planning to head back for breakfast. I can't wait to dig into "Hey Y'all"...Savory Sardines with Caramelized Onions and Olive Oil served over Local Stone Ground Hominy Grits ($5.50). Doesn't that just sound Geechee delicious?
Alluette's Cafe
80 Reid Street, downtown
(843) 577-6926
Mon., B/L, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
Tues., B/L/D, 8 a.m.-9 p.m .
Wed.-Sat., B/L/D/Late night bites, 8 a.m.- 2 a.m.
Sun., Brunch, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Live Music sometimes offered on Friday and Saturday evenings, 10:30 p.m. - 2 a.m.
Alluette's Cafe is the latest ode to local soul food, but owner Alluette Jones-Smalls throws a surprising twist into the usual soul food equation. Alluette's is "holistic" serving "fresh, local organic produce and dry goods when available". In addition, as the menu states, all meats are "free of hormones, nitrates, artificial color and sulfites." Rice and soy milk are the restaurant's accepted substitutes for dairy. There is one more thing. Alluette's does not serve or cook with pork.
What? No pig in a soul food joint? How can this be, you might ask. I asked Alluette myself when I entered the recently opened restaurant on a sunny afternoon; the light casting a pink hue on the coral, cinder-block walls like a sunset on winter marsh grasses. Her resisitance to cooking with pork (and pairing certain foods) does go back to religion, but not because she's Muslim as I'd clumsily implied in my awkward query. It has to do with the teachings of the book of Leviticus from the Old Testament of the bible. She told me so. I researched it after returning home from a soulful and savory lunch here and learned that eating pork and other divided-hoofed animals that do not chew their cud is listed as off-limits in Chapter 11 for various reasons that essentielly relate to respecting the body, spirituality and God.
Whatever your beliefs (or Alluette's) on such matters, there is no doubt that she is committed to preparing body-friendly foods and has been granted the talent (along with executive chef Absalom Thomas) to make it taste divine. Originally from Mount Pleasant, Jones-Smalls recently sold a successful restaurant on St. Helena island near Beaufort to set up shop in this understated setting situated smack dab in the middle of the up-and-coming Midtown area of the peninsula, because, as she told me, "Charleston is where I need to be right now."
She's re-roosted in a big way. The restaurant is far from fancy. The small is space dominated with an eclectic array of mis-matched tables and chairs and a huge blackboard posting the days specials for breakfast, lunch and dinner; all this flanked by a rundown looking courtyard with a tattered link fence. Still, it's attractive, clean, absolutely homey, appropriate and intelligent. Regarding the latter, I'd far rather see a small, family run business sink their funds into the food as opposed to the sometimes suffocating overhead of fancier digs.
That's what Alluette's does. The investment is in the food, the preparation and the startling friendly and sincere staff, beginning with Alluette's firm handshake, hello and introduction she offers her guests upon arrival. When she's not doing that, she's standing behind a small window in a small kitchen whisking and stirring myriad pots and bowls, seemingly sprinkling them with the pixie dust of Geechee culinary magic. The food is so clean and pure tasting, you don't even miss the pig, even in the collards which seemed infused with a blend of seasonings you might otherwise taste in dill pickles.
But, there's no telling, at least not from Alluette. She doesn't share her recipes, according to our maternally warm server. That includes the magical mystery tea ($1.80 per glass) that is blended with a series of fresh fruit juices (no sugar added!) and served over plenty of ice. I thought I sensed a mix of mango, papaya and apricot in just the right amount blended into my delicious brew that just kept coming whenever I said the word and even when I didn't.
Alluette buys her vegetables locally from Joseph Fields and also is loyal to St. Helena Island purveyor, Barefoot Farms. The freshness of Lowcountry produce burst through every ounce of the fresh baby lima bean soup ($4.50, cup) and the tomato-based fish stew ($5, cup). I particularly appreciated the former which, in its clean, savory broth and 100% lima bean purity, was quintessentiel simplicity seasoned only with salt and a dash of cayenne pepper provided on the table. Only talented chefs with devotion to fresh produce can make something so simple and pure taste so good without getting heavy-handed. Put this one on your must-order list. The fish stew's high notes were in the veggies - threads of spinach, chunks of carrots, sweet tomatoes - all brought together with fresh bites of basil.
"Baked Chicken" ($9.95) with one side (the aforementioned collards) seems like an overly-humble misnomer for this juicy, wholesome rendition of thyme-seasoned perfection. This just spoke to my heart and made me think of easier, simpler times. The feel-good, taste-delicious mood carried over to the Angus steak sandwich special (8.95), layered with 1/4" thick slices of pure beef, tangy cheddar cheese, a warm, caramelized red onion, and slivers of yellow peppers on a chewy, toasted baguette. This was served with a small cup of a tangy/sweet, crunchy slaw peppered with celery seed and a crisp, cold pickle.
Unlike a lot of soul food restaurants where food (though delicious) can feel heavy, I left Alluette's Cafe feeling light and satisfied. My belly was comfortably full and my soul was happy. I felt like I had made a solid investment in time well-spent. Speaking of time, keep in mind that it's not hurried, and at times may feel a little slow if you're not accustomed to food being cooked to order as it is here. Be patient. You'll be glad you did.
Brand new, Alluette's is still working out the kinks on little things (like a non-functioning credit card machine the day I was there), but gets almost everything right. In the future, the restaurant plans to offer cooking classes and serve alcohol. For now, settle into some of that tea and have a good ole' holistic Geechee good time. I'm planning to head back for breakfast. I can't wait to dig into "Hey Y'all"...Savory Sardines with Caramelized Onions and Olive Oil served over Local Stone Ground Hominy Grits ($5.50). Doesn't that just sound Geechee delicious?
Alluette's Cafe
80 Reid Street, downtown
(843) 577-6926
Mon., B/L, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
Tues., B/L/D, 8 a.m.-9 p.m .
Wed.-Sat., B/L/D/Late night bites, 8 a.m.- 2 a.m.
Sun., Brunch, 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Live Music sometimes offered on Friday and Saturday evenings, 10:30 p.m. - 2 a.m.
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