Lennon and McCartney were right on when they penned these lyrics for The Beatle's venerable White Album classic, Glass Onion. Forty years later, these words still ring true, especially in the context of the newly opened Glass Onion restaurant in West Ashley. Now a month-old, The Glass Onion, situated in what was formerly an ugly book exchange shop on what is still a relatively ugly stretch of Savannah Highway, is putting the Fab Fours' tune to incredibly delicious culinary music, in a most modern way. It is definitely another place you can go, and one you should go to, too, if you seek across-the-board exceptionally fresh, reasonably priced and delicious food.
The folks here are not necessarily "fixing a hole in the ocean" as the psychedelic song goes, but The Glass Onion is well on its way to casting a brighter shade of green upon the Charleston localvore dining and all-important ancillary local farming scenes. Their web site outlines their commitment to buying locally and seasonally - "We strongly believe in the importance of eating seasonally, locally and naturally. So, you can expect all natural meats, local seafood and vegetables from as close to home as we can get."
The restaurant's timely and relevant creed is backed up with the seasonally revolving, Southern-inspired "soulful food" menu rife with tantalizing, homey promise in dishes like Miss Kimberly's Shrimp with Beans and Rice ($12), Grilled Pimento Cheese Overstuffed Sandwich ($6) and Fried Chicken Livers with Bibb Lettuce (Big, $8, Little $5).
The menu mood is decidedly country Southern, with serious nods to New Orleans and the Lowcountry. It's a logical composition since the restaurant's young owners (Charles Vincent, Chris Stewart and Sarah O'Kelley) hail from New Orleans, Birmingham, and Georgia, respectively. The trio found each other at FIG, where Stewart landed a job as sous chef while Vincent was working there. After a two year-long search and a long-established dream to open their own restaurant, they put their mutual fine-dining backgrounds (which include working with the likes of Emeril) to use to make "mid-scale comfort food," found the space at 1219 Savannah Highway, and set up shop.
The space is bright and uncluttered with a large, open counter to place orders. Several picnic tables are situated outside to invite alfresco dining. The restaurant employs a handy system to pair orders with their owners once the food comes up from the kitchen. Pictures of celebrities - from Jackie O to Miss Piggy - are affixed to clear, plastic stands and placed on your table. The celeb's name (in my case, Einstein!) is written on your order ticket and a clear-visioned spotter then tracks the corresponding picture down and delivers the food. It's a much better system than those pesky buzzers, and infinitely more personal. The food came quickly and with a smile, despite the fact the restaurant was serving a nearly full house the day I visited.
The personalized mood continued throughout and perhaps most importantly, in the food itself. Local, fresh flavor and a love and knowledge of Southern cooking sang through virtually every bite. The House made Pickles ($2, or one of four side choices for $7) are made of snappy cukes, red peppers and onions in a mild, sweet brine that spend a night in the cooler only to emerge as fresh as daisies. Similarly, the Roasted Garlic Potato Gratin, composed of tight layers of whisper-thin potatoes wobbling with frailty in creamery-fresh cream and sweet, roasted garlic, and subtle, luscious White Beans and Rice sides, were impeccably executed and impeccably infused with authentic, rural Southern spirit.
O'Kelley told me the restaurant buys their Bibb lettuce, cucumbers and tomatoes from Kurios Farms in Moncks Corner. I assert they need to keep that up! The Glass Onions Bibb Lettuce salad is arguably one of the most simply beautiful things I have ever had the pleasure of eating. Served on chunky, off-white plates (like all the food here) that recall diners of yesteryear, the pale and lime-green leaves were opened like a flower seeking the sun and generously (but not overly) topped with a creamy/tart black peppercorn buttermilk dressing that rivals any truly house made salad dressing I've ever had, let alone in Charleston.
After the stellar starter debut, I was a tad disappointed with Stew's Meatball Po Boy ($8), finding the texture of the meatballs a bit on the mushy side. The flavor of the marina and girth of the thick, oven-warm and toasty baguette were spot on, however, and there is no topping the tender Root Beer Glazed Pork Belly ($12) served with sweet collards and toothsome Anson Mills grits.
"Locals don't let locals eat imported shrimp," one of several green-themed bumper stickers posted on the small refrigerator behind the small order-taking counter implores. Indeed, I contend that locals (or anyone) must not waste another precious minute to take a big bite out of The Glass Onion. Reasonably priced, locally grown and delicious, Southern "soulful" food doesn't come along every day, especially with free and ample parking. The restaurant's menu is updated daily on the web site listed below.
The Glass Onion
1219 Savannah Highway, West Ashley
(843) 225-1717
Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Sat., brunch, 10 a.m.-4 -p.m.
www.ilovetheglassonion.com
12 comments:
I wouldn't call a $15 lunch that included an smallish oyster poboy, with a side of 2 pickles and a coffee inexpensive. It wasn't even that good, especially for the price AND you don't even get table service(order at the counter and refill your own drinks).
While I applaud their stance on using local food, I fear they may have priced themselves out of West Ashley.
Dear Amblin,
Food is expensive these days, anyway you cut it. I, like you, don't consider Glass Onion to be "inexpensive". However, I do think it offers great value, especially if you compare it to some of its West Ashley food neighbors. I can't get away from the occasional Wendy's hit for less than $5, Earth Fare's salad bar for much less than $10 and Jason's (on the especially rare occasion)for much less than that.
Since none of these restaurants offer any kind of personalized service (aside from order taking)and none of them actually deliver the food, I think Glass Onion fares very well comparatively.
I haven't had the oyster Po'Boy you ordered, but the meatball Po' Boy I sampled was substantial - more than a meal in one. If you go again, the restaurant's offering of 4 side dishes for $7 is a steal of a deal. I recommend it.
With it's all-important local thrust and, in my opinion, great, reasonably priced food, I hope your prediction is wrong and also that you will go back and give Glass Onion a second try.
Thank you so much for writing! Holly
Food is expensive these days
That really depends on what you eat. If you just get the Soup of the Day, you can get out of Jason's for less than $3.
I played the "lunch for less" game a few months back. There was a while where I was swapping between Taco Bell's Bean Burrito and MUSC's soup and biscuit. You can get both of those choices for less than $1.
I'm going to be starting the "full-student" route again, so I'm going to have to play this game again. Because of this, I don't think I'll be visiting the Glass Onion (especially if it is as much as amblin says). Hopefully, they'll be around when I graduate. I was looking forward to their offerings.
Hi Labthug,
I see someone has a sense of humor. I didn't know about the MUSC deal. I'll have to check out your suggestions.
A few others I keep in mind during lean budget times are the sub of the day at Teeter (I think it's $2.49) and always freshly made. Another huge bargain is the lunch the students prepare over at Trident Tech. If memory serves me correctly, you can get a beautiful, multi-course, first-class lunch for less than $10!
Happy eating and bargain hunting...Holly
my you are busy with two books and a cookbook coming out in the future! Gibbs Smith publishes beautiful books...sure yours will be, too. How is the weather in CHAS?
Hi mathomvista,
Busy, indeed. A good thing, too. Just wrapping up on the Gibbs Smith book research, writing and photography and excited to see it and its message become a reality. In fact, I'm in Atlanta wrapping up an epic Southern farmers' market marathon. Not in Charleston at the moment, but can report that we've had a lovely spring - gorgeous flowers and temperate days. Thanks for writing! Holly
well, Holly, tell us about the trip. did you travel by bus, plane, car or motorcycyle and did you take the chocolate pup?
Hi M.,
The trip was great - by car with pup. We logged many (some 2,000)miles across 6 states and visited about 15 markets. Saw gorgeous country and met some fabulous farmers and people. Good to be home. Look for more details in the book next spring! Have a great weekend. Holly
I've been to The Onion several times, and, yes it is a bit heavier on the wallet than some places . . . but you usually get what you pay for, especially with food. I think the lunches at The Onion are excellent; they have the best chicken livers in town, and their cornbread with honey is deadly.
True, not much on ambiance, but neither is the drive-up lane at T-Bell. And compare the eats to that graveyard of pre-frozen delights, "The Olive Garden", which isn't much cheaper.
Not for an everyday lunch, but once or twice a month, a great place for that "I need something better than Hogans' Gyros."
A time and a place for everyhting . . .
RHB
Glass Onion disapointing -- Today, I took 3 friends (two visiting from North Carolina, one from Colorado) for brunch at The Glass Onion.
I had told them how great the food and service was and they were very excited to try it. One friend ordered the quiche Lorraine, only to be told later that the quiche was not ready and was forced to make another choice. Another friend and I ordered the gumbo, which was served without rice since apparently someone had forgotten to make rice. At the register, we were offered about $1 off the gumbo since it came with no rice. I'm not from New Orleans, but is rice-less gumbo really traditional gumbo?
Wikipedia has the correct definition of gumbo. Perhaps the owners and staff of this purportedly cajun eatery should visit this article to be brought up to date:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gumbo
Oigres,
Thanks for writing and also researching gumbo. I'm always sorry to hear about a disappointing restaurant experience, especially when visiting friends are in the mix.
I haven't been to their brunch, but I've heard it's well traveled. As a new restaurant, they're likely experiencing planning/growing pains to adjust to their audience size. I suggest you don't give up yet. My personal policy is "three strikes and you're out."
I was there about a week ago with some visiting friends and I can honestly report everything was perfect. But then, I didn't have the gumbo:) Better luck next time and please keep me updated with your experience(s). Thank you! Holly
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