Wow, what a first day for the farmer's market season. Saturday's opening day for the Charleston market on Marion Square was an unprecedented doozy. In a decade, I've never seen so much traffic at the market on any day of the year. I was unable to get there until noon. By then, most booth's were already sold out or nearly sold out. Karen Kennerty of Kennerty Farms had two bags of fresh greens left - all the asparagus and everything else had sold out by mid-morning, she reported with a beaming smile. Obviously, the appeal of supporting local farmers and locally produced foods is blooming. Perhaps the gorgeous weather had something to do with it, as well.
Food vendors offering gyro's, crepes, omelets, pasta, (local) open-faced grilled sandwiches, miniature pies, and an increasingly gourmet cache of goodies were clogged to the extreme and waits were long for lunch. I had to settle for a hot dog from the only relatively lonely vendor at the place. At least it was a good hot dog.
Hope the farmers load up for this Saturday's market, which opens at 8 a.m. and closes at 2 p.m. I, for one, plan to get there early!
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Dinner and a View
Early spring in Charleston stirs up (along with a hefty dose of pollen) a hefty appetite for some of the city's unparalleled views, and the closer to nature the better. Since Charleston is surrounded by water, dappled with sunlight and rippling with pale green marsh grasses during this most comely of seasons, water-side dining seems like the perfect pick. But, unless you live on the edge of it or have a friend who does, your options are limited. Then, there is California Dreaming.
I know, I know. This twenty-year-old restaurant stalwart isn't likely to be at the top of any gourmand's list for five-star dining and it's probably never going to get a nod from the James Beard House. However, there are lots of things to like about it, and the brightest star on that list has to be the circle-in-the-round water views which can be savored from literally any of the many seats in the spacious house. It's exquisite. The Ashley snaking to the north, the Cooper River bridge on the horizon, the colorful glitter of the peninsula, the bustle of maritime activity on the river, and an open view of the harbor that extends well past Fort Sumter are all there for the taking along with what's almost always a good meal for a fair price.
A fairly straightforward meat and potatoes joint, California Dreaming proves time and again it can deliver in the steak department. The New York Strip ($22.95) I ordered on a recent trip was cooked perfectly to order, seasoned through and through and frankly, was one of the best renditions you can find around town within that price range. Baked potatoes, which come loaded if you choose, are always soft and fluffy, just begging to soak up seasonings, butter, sour cream and whatever else additionally calories you dare pile on. That same $22.95 will buy you another side, which usually ends up being the restaurant's popular house salad. As with the potato, I ask them to hold the eggs, bacon and cheese for which the salad's celebrated, but are not welcomed by my waistline defenses. Even without the extras, it's a pleasant addition to the meal.
The service staff is young and sometimes erratic but usually friendly and efficient. In the roughly ten times I've dined here in as many years, every single time the place has been packed. It brings in a diverse crowd of seniors, families, romantic couples, and tourists and can be loud. But, one cast of your eyes and your mind upon the nearly surreal beauty of the view blocks it all out so you can really enjoy your meal, the moment, and Charleston's knock-out beauty.
For a dusk-time nightcap, why not visit another tried and true, if slightly corny, Charleston tradition just across the waterway at the Holiday Inn's Harborview Restaurant. It just received an interior design update, but the view, elevated several stories higher than California Dreaming's, remains its good old celestial self. Pair that with one of the affable bartenders' cocktails and you'll swear you're in heaven. And, you just might be right.
California Dreaming Restaurant
1 Ashley Point Drive, Charleston
(843) 766-1644
Holiday Inn Riverview - Harborview Restaurant
301 Savannah Highway, West Ashley
(843) 725-4138
I know, I know. This twenty-year-old restaurant stalwart isn't likely to be at the top of any gourmand's list for five-star dining and it's probably never going to get a nod from the James Beard House. However, there are lots of things to like about it, and the brightest star on that list has to be the circle-in-the-round water views which can be savored from literally any of the many seats in the spacious house. It's exquisite. The Ashley snaking to the north, the Cooper River bridge on the horizon, the colorful glitter of the peninsula, the bustle of maritime activity on the river, and an open view of the harbor that extends well past Fort Sumter are all there for the taking along with what's almost always a good meal for a fair price.
A fairly straightforward meat and potatoes joint, California Dreaming proves time and again it can deliver in the steak department. The New York Strip ($22.95) I ordered on a recent trip was cooked perfectly to order, seasoned through and through and frankly, was one of the best renditions you can find around town within that price range. Baked potatoes, which come loaded if you choose, are always soft and fluffy, just begging to soak up seasonings, butter, sour cream and whatever else additionally calories you dare pile on. That same $22.95 will buy you another side, which usually ends up being the restaurant's popular house salad. As with the potato, I ask them to hold the eggs, bacon and cheese for which the salad's celebrated, but are not welcomed by my waistline defenses. Even without the extras, it's a pleasant addition to the meal.
The service staff is young and sometimes erratic but usually friendly and efficient. In the roughly ten times I've dined here in as many years, every single time the place has been packed. It brings in a diverse crowd of seniors, families, romantic couples, and tourists and can be loud. But, one cast of your eyes and your mind upon the nearly surreal beauty of the view blocks it all out so you can really enjoy your meal, the moment, and Charleston's knock-out beauty.
For a dusk-time nightcap, why not visit another tried and true, if slightly corny, Charleston tradition just across the waterway at the Holiday Inn's Harborview Restaurant. It just received an interior design update, but the view, elevated several stories higher than California Dreaming's, remains its good old celestial self. Pair that with one of the affable bartenders' cocktails and you'll swear you're in heaven. And, you just might be right.
California Dreaming Restaurant
1 Ashley Point Drive, Charleston
(843) 766-1644
Holiday Inn Riverview - Harborview Restaurant
301 Savannah Highway, West Ashley
(843) 725-4138
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Mediterranean Invasion
It's coming to me in shades of chickpeas and lamb - the heady, delicious and fattening year I lived in Hoboken, NJ and worked in Manhattan at the corner of 34th Street and Park Avenue. At home, I was assaulted with Italian deliciousness in the form of simply adorned pizza pies and at work, the seducers came in the form of exotic scents wafting from the Indian and Mediterranean restaurants that populated Lexington Avenue. On any given morning, they would ruthlessly taunt me until I inevitably and hungrily succumbed to their temptations by lunch time. It was the year that I fell in love with Middle Eastern/Mediterranean food and now, some twenty years later, my passion and hunger for the stuff borders on scarily obsessive.
So, when a friend told me about a new, month-old place called Ali Baba in Mount Pleasant, I practically cantered over, simultaneously learning that there is another new restaurant with a similar name (Ali Baba Mediterranean Deli & Catering) on Daniel Island. Oh, happy day! Until now, I had to satisfy my Middle Eastern cravings with the scant (but oh so good!) local offerings from Pita King's schwarma to Charlie's made-to-order falafel. I'll get to the "other" Ali Baba soon enough, but for now, am happy to report that the Mt. Pleasant version, while not necessarily Sheik-worthy, is good, pleasant and kind to the budget.
Owned and run by two guys from Jerusalem, the place is simply adorned with slightly wobbly tables and, strangely enough, Egyptian-motif wall coverings. Like the Lexington Avenue of yore, the air is perfumed with cloves, mint, lemon, lamb, cumin and more, which seeped into my appetite veins like a long-forgotten drug. A large sign stating "Family, Love" seemed ill-placed at first, but that impression quickly faded away with the familial mood of our good-natured server and the eclectic, unpretentious tempo of the crowd that practically filled the room by the time our dinner was done. Our server was the only person working the growing crowd, so she became harried and even broke a delicate sweat on her brow, but managed to get everything to the table within good speed and with a smile.
Ali Baba needs to work on their wine offerings. They are limited to just two and neither are well-suited to most Western palates, including mine.
Aside from some erroneous menu descriptions - most notably rice that tasted and looked like saffron rice that the menu repeatedly refers to as "curried rice" - Ali Baba hit the right notes in the food department. In particular, the kitchen shows real talent in marrying and balancing a series of challenging spice combinations in a number of dishes. For example, the kalaya ($9.99) takes on cloves - a potential flavor killer if used in excess - which the kitchen idyllically balances with the tang of lemon and the fragrance of lamb. A crispy "Jerusalem" salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, and smooth tahini is served alongside. The kofta kabab dinner ($10.99) is a satisfying plate of diminutive, smoky ground lamb patties served over a large bed of airy, saffron-infused rice. Don't miss the appetizer combination plate ($6.99) of falafel (a much more cardamon/cumin-rich version than Charlie's but still very good), silky smooth hummus and baba ganoush (although we inexplicably received the restaurant's mint-rich tabouli instead).
Ali Baba Mediterranean Food
920 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, #A2
Mount Pleasant, SC
(In the Harris Teeter Shopping Center next to Starbucks)
(843) 388-0683
So, when a friend told me about a new, month-old place called Ali Baba in Mount Pleasant, I practically cantered over, simultaneously learning that there is another new restaurant with a similar name (Ali Baba Mediterranean Deli & Catering) on Daniel Island. Oh, happy day! Until now, I had to satisfy my Middle Eastern cravings with the scant (but oh so good!) local offerings from Pita King's schwarma to Charlie's made-to-order falafel. I'll get to the "other" Ali Baba soon enough, but for now, am happy to report that the Mt. Pleasant version, while not necessarily Sheik-worthy, is good, pleasant and kind to the budget.
Owned and run by two guys from Jerusalem, the place is simply adorned with slightly wobbly tables and, strangely enough, Egyptian-motif wall coverings. Like the Lexington Avenue of yore, the air is perfumed with cloves, mint, lemon, lamb, cumin and more, which seeped into my appetite veins like a long-forgotten drug. A large sign stating "Family, Love" seemed ill-placed at first, but that impression quickly faded away with the familial mood of our good-natured server and the eclectic, unpretentious tempo of the crowd that practically filled the room by the time our dinner was done. Our server was the only person working the growing crowd, so she became harried and even broke a delicate sweat on her brow, but managed to get everything to the table within good speed and with a smile.
Ali Baba needs to work on their wine offerings. They are limited to just two and neither are well-suited to most Western palates, including mine.
Aside from some erroneous menu descriptions - most notably rice that tasted and looked like saffron rice that the menu repeatedly refers to as "curried rice" - Ali Baba hit the right notes in the food department. In particular, the kitchen shows real talent in marrying and balancing a series of challenging spice combinations in a number of dishes. For example, the kalaya ($9.99) takes on cloves - a potential flavor killer if used in excess - which the kitchen idyllically balances with the tang of lemon and the fragrance of lamb. A crispy "Jerusalem" salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, and smooth tahini is served alongside. The kofta kabab dinner ($10.99) is a satisfying plate of diminutive, smoky ground lamb patties served over a large bed of airy, saffron-infused rice. Don't miss the appetizer combination plate ($6.99) of falafel (a much more cardamon/cumin-rich version than Charlie's but still very good), silky smooth hummus and baba ganoush (although we inexplicably received the restaurant's mint-rich tabouli instead).
Ali Baba Mediterranean Food
920 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, #A2
Mount Pleasant, SC
(In the Harris Teeter Shopping Center next to Starbucks)
(843) 388-0683
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Chefs at Work
Professional chefs have the reputation of being any combination of the following: moody, bossy, perfectionists, demanding, fun, and creative. I've worked around and with enough to know that most display some or all of these qualities on any given day or night at work. It's really the nature of the beast. A good or great chef must be creative and demanding of himself as well as his staff in order to create greatness. But, it's the personality and character behind the beast that really mandates any chef's behavior in the kitchen.
Thus, it was wonderfully fun and enlightening to witness so many nationally recognized chefs at work in the demonstration kitchen prep tent during last weekend's BB&T Charleston Food & Wine Festival. This year, as in the four years since the festival's debut, I've had the pleasure and honor to work as an assistant to visiting chefs preparing for their respective cooking demonstrations. Tasks can be as humbling as fetching ice and ramekins and as fascinating as assisting with chopping and organizing assorted mise en place. But, perhaps most fascinating of all was observing the chefs mannerisms, style and manners at work. Here's how it panned out for some of the visiting chefs I worked with and/or was able to observe:
Bobby Flay (Mesa Grill, Bar American, Bobby Flay Steak and Bobby's Burger Palace):
The Food Network darling and celebrated grill master needs virtually no introduction and was the headliner chef for the event. His demonstration was all about making the perfect burger. He strolled quietly and confidently into the prep tent about one hour before his demo in sun glasses, a blue jacket and khakis. He looked like the boy next door and quickly made greetings and shook hands (including mine) before getting to work with the blushing, young Trident Technical College assistant that was assigned to work with him. He struck me as being very businesslike and task oriented - as if this wasn't his first rodeo. Midway through his demonstration, his assistant flew breathlessly and flushed into the tent in search of Dijon mustard requested by Mr. Flay. Fat Hen's Fred Neuville (who oversaw the cooking competition) was able to rustle it up for her and on went the show. After that, I saw Flay strolling the grounds from time to time, making introductions or greeting various chefs. Other than that, the low-key, hard-working pro stayed hidden behind a pair of dark sunglasses, as if to avoid fans, fanfare and autographs.
Brian O'Donohoe (Primehouse New York)
O'Donohoe's resume includes working for six years under Eric Ripert's four-star and hyper celebrated Le Bernadin and working as executive chef at one of New York's best restaurants. For a chef of his elevated stature, O'Donohoe was remarkably down-to-earth. In fact, he was by far the most down-to-earth and relaxed of any of the chefs I worked with over the weekend. With his boyish good looks and broad smile, he basically created his own mis en place and prep sheet, occasionally asking for a whisk here or a bowl there. He insisted on carrying all or most of his stuff to and from the grill tent which was located a good five minute walk away from the demo tent. If this chef is spoiled or temper mental, he doesn't act like it. His knife and organizational skills were those of a well-seasoned, French classical professional, even if he looks (and he looks good, ladies) barely thirty years old.
Frank Stitt (Highlands Bar & Grill, Bottega, Bottega Cafe and Chez Fonfon)
You have got to love a guy that brings his teenage daughter along with him to prepare for a demonstration. Both diminutive, soft-spoken, and polite, they made for an endearing team. I worked with both of them while they put together the ingredients for a bocatini, clams and greens pasta dish he was preparing to showcase as a recipe from his latest book, Frank Stitt's Bottega Favorita: A Southern Chef's Love Affair with Italian Food. Despite the fact that we couldn't find ramekins, the planned rapini ingredient was limp, and that it took a while to track down a whole head of garlic, Stitt maintained his cool and calm, while gently persisting the importance of having each on hand. Eventually, we forgot the ramekins, substituted collards for the rapini and purloined the garlic from the competition stage. At the demo tent, Stitt lined up his ingredients in the precise order they would be needed in a restrained, gentlemanly and persistent manner. He personally thanked me afterwards for my help and even threw in a warm, fatherly hug for good measure. He and his daughter were discussing their afternoon plans, which included attending a yoga class together in Mount Pleasant. That's what I call good karma.
Thus, it was wonderfully fun and enlightening to witness so many nationally recognized chefs at work in the demonstration kitchen prep tent during last weekend's BB&T Charleston Food & Wine Festival. This year, as in the four years since the festival's debut, I've had the pleasure and honor to work as an assistant to visiting chefs preparing for their respective cooking demonstrations. Tasks can be as humbling as fetching ice and ramekins and as fascinating as assisting with chopping and organizing assorted mise en place. But, perhaps most fascinating of all was observing the chefs mannerisms, style and manners at work. Here's how it panned out for some of the visiting chefs I worked with and/or was able to observe:
Bobby Flay (Mesa Grill, Bar American, Bobby Flay Steak and Bobby's Burger Palace):
The Food Network darling and celebrated grill master needs virtually no introduction and was the headliner chef for the event. His demonstration was all about making the perfect burger. He strolled quietly and confidently into the prep tent about one hour before his demo in sun glasses, a blue jacket and khakis. He looked like the boy next door and quickly made greetings and shook hands (including mine) before getting to work with the blushing, young Trident Technical College assistant that was assigned to work with him. He struck me as being very businesslike and task oriented - as if this wasn't his first rodeo. Midway through his demonstration, his assistant flew breathlessly and flushed into the tent in search of Dijon mustard requested by Mr. Flay. Fat Hen's Fred Neuville (who oversaw the cooking competition) was able to rustle it up for her and on went the show. After that, I saw Flay strolling the grounds from time to time, making introductions or greeting various chefs. Other than that, the low-key, hard-working pro stayed hidden behind a pair of dark sunglasses, as if to avoid fans, fanfare and autographs.
Brian O'Donohoe (Primehouse New York)
O'Donohoe's resume includes working for six years under Eric Ripert's four-star and hyper celebrated Le Bernadin and working as executive chef at one of New York's best restaurants. For a chef of his elevated stature, O'Donohoe was remarkably down-to-earth. In fact, he was by far the most down-to-earth and relaxed of any of the chefs I worked with over the weekend. With his boyish good looks and broad smile, he basically created his own mis en place and prep sheet, occasionally asking for a whisk here or a bowl there. He insisted on carrying all or most of his stuff to and from the grill tent which was located a good five minute walk away from the demo tent. If this chef is spoiled or temper mental, he doesn't act like it. His knife and organizational skills were those of a well-seasoned, French classical professional, even if he looks (and he looks good, ladies) barely thirty years old.
Frank Stitt (Highlands Bar & Grill, Bottega, Bottega Cafe and Chez Fonfon)
You have got to love a guy that brings his teenage daughter along with him to prepare for a demonstration. Both diminutive, soft-spoken, and polite, they made for an endearing team. I worked with both of them while they put together the ingredients for a bocatini, clams and greens pasta dish he was preparing to showcase as a recipe from his latest book, Frank Stitt's Bottega Favorita: A Southern Chef's Love Affair with Italian Food. Despite the fact that we couldn't find ramekins, the planned rapini ingredient was limp, and that it took a while to track down a whole head of garlic, Stitt maintained his cool and calm, while gently persisting the importance of having each on hand. Eventually, we forgot the ramekins, substituted collards for the rapini and purloined the garlic from the competition stage. At the demo tent, Stitt lined up his ingredients in the precise order they would be needed in a restrained, gentlemanly and persistent manner. He personally thanked me afterwards for my help and even threw in a warm, fatherly hug for good measure. He and his daughter were discussing their afternoon plans, which included attending a yoga class together in Mount Pleasant. That's what I call good karma.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
One Hundred Percent Technically Correct
When Johnson & Wales packed its bags and headed to Charlotte a few years ago, many predicted that Charleston's restaurant scene would falter in the absence of the culinary and hospitality school giant. While the loss was both massive and preventable, Trident Technical College has seriously stepped up to the challenge plate to fill in any potential culinary training gaps in greater Charleston. Indeed, on Friday night, the school, its students and its faculty proved itself to be a world-class culinary tour de force with its "A Night in the Valley" fund-raiser.
I attended the event and was immediately wowed by the facility before the evening got underway. Champagne and appetizers flowed from a series of ultra-modern, commanding cooking laboratories that made Le Cordon Bleu, Paris facility (at least when I attended 15 years ago) look seriously small and antiquated. Students, clad in their chef's togs and wearing broad smiles, served graciously and pridefully. It was wonderful to see how much joy and pride they took in their work, for this the school's biggest annual fund-raiser. Most people don't realize that many culinary students choose the profession after already pursuing another career. They go to culinary school because they want to, not because mom and dad say they have to. They go because they have a hunger to understand the fundamentals of cooking and from the looks and taste of things, they're getting it here, in spades.
After cocktails, dinner was served to a packed house. The tables were impeccably dressed with linens and more wine glasses than I could count. Students stood at the ready to serve, and then came a remarkable stream of Italian inspired goodies, starting with spanking fresh bread baked in-house that very morning. A sweet/tart eggplant caponata starter was balanced with the mellow counterpoints of grilled radicchio. Next, a thin-as-air flutter of ravioli stuffed to the brim with fresh lobster and crab; a delicate seafood reduction sauce was the luscious complement. I had to leave before the entree and dessert were served, but ponder the decadence of a center cut grilled veal chop with a porcini sauce, spinach aioli and a risotto cake followed by a milk chocolate hazelnut pave with popcorn ice cream. All the well-paired wines served with the dinner were imported from Italy, to boot.
Everything I tasted and everything I experienced on this fine evening was without fault and fully enjoyable. Pulling off a meal of this complexity served to this large of a crowd (550 warm bodies!) with this much positive energy and panache, is no small feat and is not one that happens by chance. It happens with the teamwork, knowledge and skill of the school's staff and the radiance and pride and talent it evokes in its students. Charleston is lucky to have Trident Technical College and I was lucky to have a chance to attend this remarkable event. Next time I'll stay for dessert!
Trident Technical College, Main Campus
700 Rivers Avenue, N. Charleston
(843) 574-6111
I attended the event and was immediately wowed by the facility before the evening got underway. Champagne and appetizers flowed from a series of ultra-modern, commanding cooking laboratories that made Le Cordon Bleu, Paris facility (at least when I attended 15 years ago) look seriously small and antiquated. Students, clad in their chef's togs and wearing broad smiles, served graciously and pridefully. It was wonderful to see how much joy and pride they took in their work, for this the school's biggest annual fund-raiser. Most people don't realize that many culinary students choose the profession after already pursuing another career. They go to culinary school because they want to, not because mom and dad say they have to. They go because they have a hunger to understand the fundamentals of cooking and from the looks and taste of things, they're getting it here, in spades.
After cocktails, dinner was served to a packed house. The tables were impeccably dressed with linens and more wine glasses than I could count. Students stood at the ready to serve, and then came a remarkable stream of Italian inspired goodies, starting with spanking fresh bread baked in-house that very morning. A sweet/tart eggplant caponata starter was balanced with the mellow counterpoints of grilled radicchio. Next, a thin-as-air flutter of ravioli stuffed to the brim with fresh lobster and crab; a delicate seafood reduction sauce was the luscious complement. I had to leave before the entree and dessert were served, but ponder the decadence of a center cut grilled veal chop with a porcini sauce, spinach aioli and a risotto cake followed by a milk chocolate hazelnut pave with popcorn ice cream. All the well-paired wines served with the dinner were imported from Italy, to boot.
Everything I tasted and everything I experienced on this fine evening was without fault and fully enjoyable. Pulling off a meal of this complexity served to this large of a crowd (550 warm bodies!) with this much positive energy and panache, is no small feat and is not one that happens by chance. It happens with the teamwork, knowledge and skill of the school's staff and the radiance and pride and talent it evokes in its students. Charleston is lucky to have Trident Technical College and I was lucky to have a chance to attend this remarkable event. Next time I'll stay for dessert!
Trident Technical College, Main Campus
700 Rivers Avenue, N. Charleston
(843) 574-6111
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Restaurant Queen
As I navigate Charleston's sea of restaurants while researching The Charleston Chef's Table Cookbook (Globe Pequot Press, February 2010), I feel a bit like Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn navigating wily waters upon the African Queen. Ah, but my job is so much more fun and usually (though not always) delicious. Because I've been so busy checking out the newest places and also re-visiting old restaurant pals I haven't "seen"
in a while, I've been slow on the blog. For that, I'm sorry. However, I wanted to take a moment to briefly describe two new restaurants and one established restaurant that most recently caught my food fancy. Here goes:
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
The word and the raves have been spreading about this new Greek goddess of goodness, but in case you missed it, I'm here to tell you, it's all true. Owned by a local Greek family with ties to a village located on the island of Samos off of Greece, Samos slams the door on the all-too-ubiquitous mediocrity of most local Greek dining spots and greets, with open arms, spotless renditions of moussaka ($14), spanakopita ($6), tzatziki ($5) and many other authentic delights rarely found in these parts. Restaurant management guru Andy Fallen oversees the hard-working, friendly staff with unfailing professionalism. In addition to all this, guests are rewarded with refreshingly chic decor, plump with pillows and glowing with candles, that is all at once sophisticated and romantic.
Lombardi's Italian Restaurant
979 Harbor View Road, James Island
(843) 795-3133
A welcome addition to Harbor View Road's skinny (and getting skinnier with the soon-to-be-gone Mimi's Cafe) restaurant offering, this big bite of Brooklyn literally drips with red sauce (a.k.a "gravy") and New York-style Italian/American guts. Owner Vince Lombardi (no relation to the coaching great) hails from Brooklyn, and struts about the spartan restaurant with equal parts pride and gruff affability.
It really is a slice of the real deal, complete with silk flowers and agreeably tacky plastic-like upholstery that blankets so much of the working class boroughs around Manhattan. Meals begin with a basket of warm garlic bread and a bowl of house made red sauce. After that, watch out waistline and hello happy! Portions are huge and prices are kind. Especially notable are the beefy, cheesy lasagna ($12) and anything "veal" (choices include Marsala, Parmesan, Piccata, Lombardi's and Richardo, $17-$18). The lasagna is a beefy, cheesy indulgence laced with more of that heart-breakingly good red sauce that recalls New York with every loving spoonful.
Mercato
102 North Market Street, downtown
(843) 722-6393
http://www.mercatocharleston.com/
A relative oldie, Mercato and executive chef Jacques Larson continues to prove that the restaurant is more than a goodie. More sophisticated than Lombardi's, Mercato is a different kind of Italian restaurant with equal parts heart. It all begins in the kitchen with Larson's shining talent. The restaurant's re-worked its mood and menu a few times since it opened in 2006, but Larson's never drifted from his penchant for perfection and creativity. Sadly, I think mostly due to its location on tourist-intensive North Market Street, Mercato is sometime lost in local consciousness as a top priority dining destination. Don't let that happen! When you do stop by, absolutely do try the Local Shrimp and Sicilian Fregula Stew of Tomato, Pine Nuts, Caper Berries, Currants and Chili Flakes (market price). The shrimp, briny and sweet, truly is local (YEAH!) and the balanced playfulness in the dish rendered it absolutely impeccable.
in a while, I've been slow on the blog. For that, I'm sorry. However, I wanted to take a moment to briefly describe two new restaurants and one established restaurant that most recently caught my food fancy. Here goes:
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
The word and the raves have been spreading about this new Greek goddess of goodness, but in case you missed it, I'm here to tell you, it's all true. Owned by a local Greek family with ties to a village located on the island of Samos off of Greece, Samos slams the door on the all-too-ubiquitous mediocrity of most local Greek dining spots and greets, with open arms, spotless renditions of moussaka ($14), spanakopita ($6), tzatziki ($5) and many other authentic delights rarely found in these parts. Restaurant management guru Andy Fallen oversees the hard-working, friendly staff with unfailing professionalism. In addition to all this, guests are rewarded with refreshingly chic decor, plump with pillows and glowing with candles, that is all at once sophisticated and romantic.
Lombardi's Italian Restaurant
979 Harbor View Road, James Island
(843) 795-3133
A welcome addition to Harbor View Road's skinny (and getting skinnier with the soon-to-be-gone Mimi's Cafe) restaurant offering, this big bite of Brooklyn literally drips with red sauce (a.k.a "gravy") and New York-style Italian/American guts. Owner Vince Lombardi (no relation to the coaching great) hails from Brooklyn, and struts about the spartan restaurant with equal parts pride and gruff affability.
It really is a slice of the real deal, complete with silk flowers and agreeably tacky plastic-like upholstery that blankets so much of the working class boroughs around Manhattan. Meals begin with a basket of warm garlic bread and a bowl of house made red sauce. After that, watch out waistline and hello happy! Portions are huge and prices are kind. Especially notable are the beefy, cheesy lasagna ($12) and anything "veal" (choices include Marsala, Parmesan, Piccata, Lombardi's and Richardo, $17-$18). The lasagna is a beefy, cheesy indulgence laced with more of that heart-breakingly good red sauce that recalls New York with every loving spoonful.
Mercato
102 North Market Street, downtown
(843) 722-6393
http://www.mercatocharleston.com/
A relative oldie, Mercato and executive chef Jacques Larson continues to prove that the restaurant is more than a goodie. More sophisticated than Lombardi's, Mercato is a different kind of Italian restaurant with equal parts heart. It all begins in the kitchen with Larson's shining talent. The restaurant's re-worked its mood and menu a few times since it opened in 2006, but Larson's never drifted from his penchant for perfection and creativity. Sadly, I think mostly due to its location on tourist-intensive North Market Street, Mercato is sometime lost in local consciousness as a top priority dining destination. Don't let that happen! When you do stop by, absolutely do try the Local Shrimp and Sicilian Fregula Stew of Tomato, Pine Nuts, Caper Berries, Currants and Chili Flakes (market price). The shrimp, briny and sweet, truly is local (YEAH!) and the balanced playfulness in the dish rendered it absolutely impeccable.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Survival of the Restaurant World's Fittest
When even a frugally minded weekly trip to the grocery store easily exceeds $100 and filling up the car's gas tank requires $50 of my increasingly hard-earned cash, I take notice. Then, I take action - cutting action.
Actually, the cutting began about a year ago. Increasingly cognizant of the credit sickness running rampant through this country, I paid off my mortgage and deleted regular pedicure, facial, and massage indulgences from my life. The latest casualties have been visits to the car wash. I've seriously contemplated trashing my two biggest emotional indulgences - weekly tennis lessons and professional hair color treatments - but I'm not there quite yet. And, unlike a lot of Americans, cutting out restaurant meals is not an option due to the nature of my work.
But, people are talking about it and doing just that. Earlier today, as I was paying nearly $200 for monthly anti-flea treatments for my two pets, the vet tech told me she "doesn't go anywhere anymore". It's straight to work and straight home with no pricey diversions along the way. Heck, even a McDonald's meal (and we all know how good they are for us) is about a $5 hit. Who can blame her?
Even though chefs about town are rightfully concerned about losing customer traffic due to the sad state of the economy, there are reasons for all of us to be optimistic. First of all, this will end. And when it does, only the very best restaurants (those that deliver the best possible food/service quality and value) will come through unscathed and we will be better served all along the way with great food at a great price.
Survival of the fittest is just as real in business as it is in nature. Two recently opened restaurants in greater Charleston are serving just the kind of stuff we want to see in these lean times - fabulous, fabulous food without the gory gouge of $40 entrees. In fact, most entrees hover around $15 with plenty of appetizers offered for significantly less. Great wine? Yes, at a good price and both restaurants throw in eye popping, tasteful decor and seasoned, professional service staffs.
Ok, I won't leave you in suspense any longer. It's almost as exciting as saving $37 on my Harris Teeter VIC card, which actually happened last week. I was so giddy I practically galloped all the way home. These restaurants had the same effect and I think they will for you: Samos Taverna and Trattoria Lucca.
The former pays impeccable homage to Greek cuisine. Owned by first time restaurateur George Malanos, the menu's inspiration comes directly from the Greek island of Samos, where his father and family were raised. I'm quite certain nobody can begin to touch the dreaminess of what's often mundane elsewhere - Samos' moussaka ($14). It floats through layers of (yes!) cinnamon and tomato and Mediterranean goodness. The sleek, cosmopolitan decor is deftly peppered with the spirit of the islands. Managing Partner Andy Fallen runs a tight, professional ship and it is reflected well in the service staff.
On the other side of the bridge, culinary superstar Ken Vedrinski has descended upon the unlikely reaches of the upper peninsula to open Trattoria Lucca. Some people I've talked to have raised their eyebrows about the restaurant's largely residential neighbors in what was once considered a pretty tough part of town. All doubts will be erased upon entering the smart, warm trattoria which bears all the hallmarks of what it was intended to be - a neighborhood gathering place like you might find in the Italian village of Lucca, which served as Vedrinski's restaurant muse. Purple and cream swirl together beautifully on the fabric pillows and banquettes while candles and dim lighting cast a sunset-like glow across the space. Meanwhile, the kitchen doles out the enticing aromas of Italy, which are plated magnificently in the likes of Roasted Fall Mushrooms (Verdure, $7) and Strozzapreti, Gorgonzola & Vidalia Onion Fonduta with Crispy Guanciale ($16).
What's not to like? Absolutely nothing. Indeed, when I asked chef Vedrinski how the restaurant was doing so early in its two-week run, he beamed and practically screamed "I'm making money". That's what it's all about. Especially when you're delivering real value and delightful dining experiences. These are things that will never go out of style and for which all of us will eternally retain a hearty appetite . These kinds of soulful dividends are priceless.
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Street, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
Trattoria Lucca
41 Bogard Street, downtown
(843) 973-3323
Actually, the cutting began about a year ago. Increasingly cognizant of the credit sickness running rampant through this country, I paid off my mortgage and deleted regular pedicure, facial, and massage indulgences from my life. The latest casualties have been visits to the car wash. I've seriously contemplated trashing my two biggest emotional indulgences - weekly tennis lessons and professional hair color treatments - but I'm not there quite yet. And, unlike a lot of Americans, cutting out restaurant meals is not an option due to the nature of my work.
But, people are talking about it and doing just that. Earlier today, as I was paying nearly $200 for monthly anti-flea treatments for my two pets, the vet tech told me she "doesn't go anywhere anymore". It's straight to work and straight home with no pricey diversions along the way. Heck, even a McDonald's meal (and we all know how good they are for us) is about a $5 hit. Who can blame her?
Even though chefs about town are rightfully concerned about losing customer traffic due to the sad state of the economy, there are reasons for all of us to be optimistic. First of all, this will end. And when it does, only the very best restaurants (those that deliver the best possible food/service quality and value) will come through unscathed and we will be better served all along the way with great food at a great price.
Survival of the fittest is just as real in business as it is in nature. Two recently opened restaurants in greater Charleston are serving just the kind of stuff we want to see in these lean times - fabulous, fabulous food without the gory gouge of $40 entrees. In fact, most entrees hover around $15 with plenty of appetizers offered for significantly less. Great wine? Yes, at a good price and both restaurants throw in eye popping, tasteful decor and seasoned, professional service staffs.
Ok, I won't leave you in suspense any longer. It's almost as exciting as saving $37 on my Harris Teeter VIC card, which actually happened last week. I was so giddy I practically galloped all the way home. These restaurants had the same effect and I think they will for you: Samos Taverna and Trattoria Lucca.
The former pays impeccable homage to Greek cuisine. Owned by first time restaurateur George Malanos, the menu's inspiration comes directly from the Greek island of Samos, where his father and family were raised. I'm quite certain nobody can begin to touch the dreaminess of what's often mundane elsewhere - Samos' moussaka ($14). It floats through layers of (yes!) cinnamon and tomato and Mediterranean goodness. The sleek, cosmopolitan decor is deftly peppered with the spirit of the islands. Managing Partner Andy Fallen runs a tight, professional ship and it is reflected well in the service staff.
On the other side of the bridge, culinary superstar Ken Vedrinski has descended upon the unlikely reaches of the upper peninsula to open Trattoria Lucca. Some people I've talked to have raised their eyebrows about the restaurant's largely residential neighbors in what was once considered a pretty tough part of town. All doubts will be erased upon entering the smart, warm trattoria which bears all the hallmarks of what it was intended to be - a neighborhood gathering place like you might find in the Italian village of Lucca, which served as Vedrinski's restaurant muse. Purple and cream swirl together beautifully on the fabric pillows and banquettes while candles and dim lighting cast a sunset-like glow across the space. Meanwhile, the kitchen doles out the enticing aromas of Italy, which are plated magnificently in the likes of Roasted Fall Mushrooms (Verdure, $7) and Strozzapreti, Gorgonzola & Vidalia Onion Fonduta with Crispy Guanciale ($16).
What's not to like? Absolutely nothing. Indeed, when I asked chef Vedrinski how the restaurant was doing so early in its two-week run, he beamed and practically screamed "I'm making money". That's what it's all about. Especially when you're delivering real value and delightful dining experiences. These are things that will never go out of style and for which all of us will eternally retain a hearty appetite . These kinds of soulful dividends are priceless.
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Street, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
Trattoria Lucca
41 Bogard Street, downtown
(843) 973-3323
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