As I navigate Charleston's sea of restaurants while researching The Charleston Chef's Table Cookbook (Globe Pequot Press, February 2010), I feel a bit like Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn navigating wily waters upon the African Queen. Ah, but my job is so much more fun and usually (though not always) delicious. Because I've been so busy checking out the newest places and also re-visiting old restaurant pals I haven't "seen"
in a while, I've been slow on the blog. For that, I'm sorry. However, I wanted to take a moment to briefly describe two new restaurants and one established restaurant that most recently caught my food fancy. Here goes:
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
The word and the raves have been spreading about this new Greek goddess of goodness, but in case you missed it, I'm here to tell you, it's all true. Owned by a local Greek family with ties to a village located on the island of Samos off of Greece, Samos slams the door on the all-too-ubiquitous mediocrity of most local Greek dining spots and greets, with open arms, spotless renditions of moussaka ($14), spanakopita ($6), tzatziki ($5) and many other authentic delights rarely found in these parts. Restaurant management guru Andy Fallen oversees the hard-working, friendly staff with unfailing professionalism. In addition to all this, guests are rewarded with refreshingly chic decor, plump with pillows and glowing with candles, that is all at once sophisticated and romantic.
Lombardi's Italian Restaurant
979 Harbor View Road, James Island
(843) 795-3133
A welcome addition to Harbor View Road's skinny (and getting skinnier with the soon-to-be-gone Mimi's Cafe) restaurant offering, this big bite of Brooklyn literally drips with red sauce (a.k.a "gravy") and New York-style Italian/American guts. Owner Vince Lombardi (no relation to the coaching great) hails from Brooklyn, and struts about the spartan restaurant with equal parts pride and gruff affability.
It really is a slice of the real deal, complete with silk flowers and agreeably tacky plastic-like upholstery that blankets so much of the working class boroughs around Manhattan. Meals begin with a basket of warm garlic bread and a bowl of house made red sauce. After that, watch out waistline and hello happy! Portions are huge and prices are kind. Especially notable are the beefy, cheesy lasagna ($12) and anything "veal" (choices include Marsala, Parmesan, Piccata, Lombardi's and Richardo, $17-$18). The lasagna is a beefy, cheesy indulgence laced with more of that heart-breakingly good red sauce that recalls New York with every loving spoonful.
Mercato
102 North Market Street, downtown
(843) 722-6393
http://www.mercatocharleston.com/
A relative oldie, Mercato and executive chef Jacques Larson continues to prove that the restaurant is more than a goodie. More sophisticated than Lombardi's, Mercato is a different kind of Italian restaurant with equal parts heart. It all begins in the kitchen with Larson's shining talent. The restaurant's re-worked its mood and menu a few times since it opened in 2006, but Larson's never drifted from his penchant for perfection and creativity. Sadly, I think mostly due to its location on tourist-intensive North Market Street, Mercato is sometime lost in local consciousness as a top priority dining destination. Don't let that happen! When you do stop by, absolutely do try the Local Shrimp and Sicilian Fregula Stew of Tomato, Pine Nuts, Caper Berries, Currants and Chili Flakes (market price). The shrimp, briny and sweet, truly is local (YEAH!) and the balanced playfulness in the dish rendered it absolutely impeccable.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Monday, October 20, 2008
Survival of the Restaurant World's Fittest
When even a frugally minded weekly trip to the grocery store easily exceeds $100 and filling up the car's gas tank requires $50 of my increasingly hard-earned cash, I take notice. Then, I take action - cutting action.
Actually, the cutting began about a year ago. Increasingly cognizant of the credit sickness running rampant through this country, I paid off my mortgage and deleted regular pedicure, facial, and massage indulgences from my life. The latest casualties have been visits to the car wash. I've seriously contemplated trashing my two biggest emotional indulgences - weekly tennis lessons and professional hair color treatments - but I'm not there quite yet. And, unlike a lot of Americans, cutting out restaurant meals is not an option due to the nature of my work.
But, people are talking about it and doing just that. Earlier today, as I was paying nearly $200 for monthly anti-flea treatments for my two pets, the vet tech told me she "doesn't go anywhere anymore". It's straight to work and straight home with no pricey diversions along the way. Heck, even a McDonald's meal (and we all know how good they are for us) is about a $5 hit. Who can blame her?
Even though chefs about town are rightfully concerned about losing customer traffic due to the sad state of the economy, there are reasons for all of us to be optimistic. First of all, this will end. And when it does, only the very best restaurants (those that deliver the best possible food/service quality and value) will come through unscathed and we will be better served all along the way with great food at a great price.
Survival of the fittest is just as real in business as it is in nature. Two recently opened restaurants in greater Charleston are serving just the kind of stuff we want to see in these lean times - fabulous, fabulous food without the gory gouge of $40 entrees. In fact, most entrees hover around $15 with plenty of appetizers offered for significantly less. Great wine? Yes, at a good price and both restaurants throw in eye popping, tasteful decor and seasoned, professional service staffs.
Ok, I won't leave you in suspense any longer. It's almost as exciting as saving $37 on my Harris Teeter VIC card, which actually happened last week. I was so giddy I practically galloped all the way home. These restaurants had the same effect and I think they will for you: Samos Taverna and Trattoria Lucca.
The former pays impeccable homage to Greek cuisine. Owned by first time restaurateur George Malanos, the menu's inspiration comes directly from the Greek island of Samos, where his father and family were raised. I'm quite certain nobody can begin to touch the dreaminess of what's often mundane elsewhere - Samos' moussaka ($14). It floats through layers of (yes!) cinnamon and tomato and Mediterranean goodness. The sleek, cosmopolitan decor is deftly peppered with the spirit of the islands. Managing Partner Andy Fallen runs a tight, professional ship and it is reflected well in the service staff.
On the other side of the bridge, culinary superstar Ken Vedrinski has descended upon the unlikely reaches of the upper peninsula to open Trattoria Lucca. Some people I've talked to have raised their eyebrows about the restaurant's largely residential neighbors in what was once considered a pretty tough part of town. All doubts will be erased upon entering the smart, warm trattoria which bears all the hallmarks of what it was intended to be - a neighborhood gathering place like you might find in the Italian village of Lucca, which served as Vedrinski's restaurant muse. Purple and cream swirl together beautifully on the fabric pillows and banquettes while candles and dim lighting cast a sunset-like glow across the space. Meanwhile, the kitchen doles out the enticing aromas of Italy, which are plated magnificently in the likes of Roasted Fall Mushrooms (Verdure, $7) and Strozzapreti, Gorgonzola & Vidalia Onion Fonduta with Crispy Guanciale ($16).
What's not to like? Absolutely nothing. Indeed, when I asked chef Vedrinski how the restaurant was doing so early in its two-week run, he beamed and practically screamed "I'm making money". That's what it's all about. Especially when you're delivering real value and delightful dining experiences. These are things that will never go out of style and for which all of us will eternally retain a hearty appetite . These kinds of soulful dividends are priceless.
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Street, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
Trattoria Lucca
41 Bogard Street, downtown
(843) 973-3323
Actually, the cutting began about a year ago. Increasingly cognizant of the credit sickness running rampant through this country, I paid off my mortgage and deleted regular pedicure, facial, and massage indulgences from my life. The latest casualties have been visits to the car wash. I've seriously contemplated trashing my two biggest emotional indulgences - weekly tennis lessons and professional hair color treatments - but I'm not there quite yet. And, unlike a lot of Americans, cutting out restaurant meals is not an option due to the nature of my work.
But, people are talking about it and doing just that. Earlier today, as I was paying nearly $200 for monthly anti-flea treatments for my two pets, the vet tech told me she "doesn't go anywhere anymore". It's straight to work and straight home with no pricey diversions along the way. Heck, even a McDonald's meal (and we all know how good they are for us) is about a $5 hit. Who can blame her?
Even though chefs about town are rightfully concerned about losing customer traffic due to the sad state of the economy, there are reasons for all of us to be optimistic. First of all, this will end. And when it does, only the very best restaurants (those that deliver the best possible food/service quality and value) will come through unscathed and we will be better served all along the way with great food at a great price.
Survival of the fittest is just as real in business as it is in nature. Two recently opened restaurants in greater Charleston are serving just the kind of stuff we want to see in these lean times - fabulous, fabulous food without the gory gouge of $40 entrees. In fact, most entrees hover around $15 with plenty of appetizers offered for significantly less. Great wine? Yes, at a good price and both restaurants throw in eye popping, tasteful decor and seasoned, professional service staffs.
Ok, I won't leave you in suspense any longer. It's almost as exciting as saving $37 on my Harris Teeter VIC card, which actually happened last week. I was so giddy I practically galloped all the way home. These restaurants had the same effect and I think they will for you: Samos Taverna and Trattoria Lucca.
The former pays impeccable homage to Greek cuisine. Owned by first time restaurateur George Malanos, the menu's inspiration comes directly from the Greek island of Samos, where his father and family were raised. I'm quite certain nobody can begin to touch the dreaminess of what's often mundane elsewhere - Samos' moussaka ($14). It floats through layers of (yes!) cinnamon and tomato and Mediterranean goodness. The sleek, cosmopolitan decor is deftly peppered with the spirit of the islands. Managing Partner Andy Fallen runs a tight, professional ship and it is reflected well in the service staff.
On the other side of the bridge, culinary superstar Ken Vedrinski has descended upon the unlikely reaches of the upper peninsula to open Trattoria Lucca. Some people I've talked to have raised their eyebrows about the restaurant's largely residential neighbors in what was once considered a pretty tough part of town. All doubts will be erased upon entering the smart, warm trattoria which bears all the hallmarks of what it was intended to be - a neighborhood gathering place like you might find in the Italian village of Lucca, which served as Vedrinski's restaurant muse. Purple and cream swirl together beautifully on the fabric pillows and banquettes while candles and dim lighting cast a sunset-like glow across the space. Meanwhile, the kitchen doles out the enticing aromas of Italy, which are plated magnificently in the likes of Roasted Fall Mushrooms (Verdure, $7) and Strozzapreti, Gorgonzola & Vidalia Onion Fonduta with Crispy Guanciale ($16).
What's not to like? Absolutely nothing. Indeed, when I asked chef Vedrinski how the restaurant was doing so early in its two-week run, he beamed and practically screamed "I'm making money". That's what it's all about. Especially when you're delivering real value and delightful dining experiences. These are things that will never go out of style and for which all of us will eternally retain a hearty appetite . These kinds of soulful dividends are priceless.
Samos Taverna
819 Coleman Street, Mount Pleasant
(843) 856-5055
Trattoria Lucca
41 Bogard Street, downtown
(843) 973-3323
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Calling All Readers
If you know of a "great" eaterie that you think I may not know about, please write and tell me about it. By great, I mean great food. It doesn't have to be expensive or fancy. I'm especially interested in far-reaching places like North Charleston, Summerville and remote segments of Mount Pleasant. Special interests include ethnic restaurants of all varieties.
Thank you for your support. If it passes muster, your suggested restaurant may be rewarded with a profile in "The Charleston Chef's Table Cookbook" coming out in February, 2010.
All the best, Holly
Thank you for your support. If it passes muster, your suggested restaurant may be rewarded with a profile in "The Charleston Chef's Table Cookbook" coming out in February, 2010.
All the best, Holly
Monday, September 22, 2008
Oak Set to Branch Out
Long a bastion of big, beefy steaks and correspondingly steep tabs, Oak Steakhouse will add a new menu and more budget-friendly concept sometime in January, if all goes as planned.
Chef/owner Brett McKee originally pondered opening a high-end seafood restaurant next door to Oak at 15 Broad Street, but decided to go back to his New York roots and personal passion for homey, Italian fare. And, instead of opening a new restaurant altogether, he's simply broadening the space, adding up to 35 seats and a new, second-floor banquette facility in the neighboring space.
The "new" Oak will be everything that it already is, just bigger and with more menu choices. McKee has created an alternative menu from the steakhouse's main menu, adding on fifteen Italian mainstays from Baked Lasagna to Roasted Lemon Chicken and a variety of brick oven pizzas, all priced at $15. Theoretically, this menu will be offered to guests on the ground floor only, which already is the least formal, and arguably most popular, of the restaurant's existing three dining areas. "The space dictates the menu," says McKee. "I like the menu, it's the kind of food I like, which means it will be good," he adds.
In yet another nod to the kind of food and environment he grew up around, McKee will also add a new Sunday dinner program that will kick off Sunday, November 2cnd. Intended to appeal to families, the menu will offer three courses priced at $30 per person. Swedish meatballs, root beer floats and orange cream sodas will all be in the offing and will be served in all three levels of the restaurant. The restaurant's signature chocolate booths will soon get a facelift in red leather to reflect the warmer, "affordable comfort food" branch at Oak.
Oak Steakhouse
17 Broad Street, downtown
(843) 722-4220
http://www.oaksteakhouserestaurant.com/
Chef/owner Brett McKee originally pondered opening a high-end seafood restaurant next door to Oak at 15 Broad Street, but decided to go back to his New York roots and personal passion for homey, Italian fare. And, instead of opening a new restaurant altogether, he's simply broadening the space, adding up to 35 seats and a new, second-floor banquette facility in the neighboring space.
The "new" Oak will be everything that it already is, just bigger and with more menu choices. McKee has created an alternative menu from the steakhouse's main menu, adding on fifteen Italian mainstays from Baked Lasagna to Roasted Lemon Chicken and a variety of brick oven pizzas, all priced at $15. Theoretically, this menu will be offered to guests on the ground floor only, which already is the least formal, and arguably most popular, of the restaurant's existing three dining areas. "The space dictates the menu," says McKee. "I like the menu, it's the kind of food I like, which means it will be good," he adds.
In yet another nod to the kind of food and environment he grew up around, McKee will also add a new Sunday dinner program that will kick off Sunday, November 2cnd. Intended to appeal to families, the menu will offer three courses priced at $30 per person. Swedish meatballs, root beer floats and orange cream sodas will all be in the offing and will be served in all three levels of the restaurant. The restaurant's signature chocolate booths will soon get a facelift in red leather to reflect the warmer, "affordable comfort food" branch at Oak.
Oak Steakhouse
17 Broad Street, downtown
(843) 722-4220
http://www.oaksteakhouserestaurant.com/
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Crave's Food Worth Raves
Landen Ganstrom did a fine job flexing his culinary chops with a globally inspired, ambitious and well-executed tapas menu during his tenure at 11 Center Street on Folly. Still, even with excellent food, things never fully came together there. The kitchen was on a different floor than the bulk of the seating area, which regularly led to choppy pacing. Also, it seemed like the owners couldn't decide if their biggest priority was the restaurant or the retail wine shop. As a result, the entire place seemed ambivalent and erratic, which sometimes made me feel like a slightly uncomfortable, albeit well-fed, customer.
Now that 11 Center Street has closed, executive chef Landen Ganstrom has found a new gig at a relatively remote outpost at The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, off the IOP Connector in Mount Pleasant. Crave Kitchen and Cocktails puts his talent to use in another ambitious menu (the current dinner menu includes 34 options, not counting weekly specials) with lunch, brunch, dinner and after-hours seating's. That's a lot to ask, but Ganstrom delivers. Everything sampled during yet another book research dinner was seamless. In fact, it seems like it was all better than I remembered at 11 Center Street.
The large kitchen's location on the same floor of the spacious, airy restaurant and a complete service staff can only help, but Ganstrom and his kitchen staff get the highest marks for flawless delivery. Generally, hummus is just hummus - chickpeas and some tahini and maybe a kick of olive oil, garlic, lemon, or another personalized ingredient - always good, rarely great. Ganstrom's hummus (Greek Dip, $8) was almost hedonistic in its goodness. What is often a too-chunky consistency in hummus was pureed to silk here, but still maintained sufficient girth to adhere to the warm, crisp pita points. The flavors were so artfully interwoven it was impossible for me to break every one down, but the end result was a sweet, smooth, buttery sensation with a mildly acidic finish. A delicate tapenade, rife with the glorious ingredients of the Mediterranean - briny olives, oregano and garlic - was chopped very finely and made the hummus taste even better when the two were combined. A tiny fresh salad with a dusting of feta completed the dish.
When a server recommends fish as ardently as our friendly, young server did, I'm apt to be suspicious the kitchen's trying to move fish that's past its prime. However, something in her sincere nature and the already proven quality ingredients in the Greek Dip, had me biting the line and hook she so convincingly cast for the Sea Bass ($22). Easily the finest piece of fish I've sampled this summer, it sizzled with a buttery pan-sear crunch on both sides. In between, the square of squeaky-fresh fish was clean and milky tasting; the perfect foil to a fried web of string potatoes and a bed of creamy wild mushroom risotto. A sweet/hot chili glaze kicked the mild flavors of the dish into well-balanced high gear. Though I found the Kentucky Bourbon Short Ribs ($18) to be slightly over-sauced with a sweet version of BBQ sauce, the beef ribs were delectable.
Though the server made a few unsubstantiated remarks about the "award winning" She Crab Soup (citing some kind words in City Paper as the source) and an awkward (yet apparently honest) explanation about a misprint on the menu regarding the sole, she was sweet and got the order right and to the table on time, with a smile. Unfortunately, the evening I was there, so was a large, semi-private party of realtor's reveling in and around the bar. Live, loud music that sounded like something you'd hear at a cash bar wedding aggressively spilled over into the dining room, which took away part of the dinner's appeal. Perhaps in the future, weather-allowing, this kind of event might be relocated to the outside patio area or reserved for later at night, after the dinner hour.
For now, the food is exactly where it should be and is a new member on my short list of places to go the next time I crave really, really good food.
Crave Kitchen and Cocktails
1968 Riviera Drive, Unit O
The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 884-1177
http://www.cravemtp.com/
Now that 11 Center Street has closed, executive chef Landen Ganstrom has found a new gig at a relatively remote outpost at The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, off the IOP Connector in Mount Pleasant. Crave Kitchen and Cocktails puts his talent to use in another ambitious menu (the current dinner menu includes 34 options, not counting weekly specials) with lunch, brunch, dinner and after-hours seating's. That's a lot to ask, but Ganstrom delivers. Everything sampled during yet another book research dinner was seamless. In fact, it seems like it was all better than I remembered at 11 Center Street.
The large kitchen's location on the same floor of the spacious, airy restaurant and a complete service staff can only help, but Ganstrom and his kitchen staff get the highest marks for flawless delivery. Generally, hummus is just hummus - chickpeas and some tahini and maybe a kick of olive oil, garlic, lemon, or another personalized ingredient - always good, rarely great. Ganstrom's hummus (Greek Dip, $8) was almost hedonistic in its goodness. What is often a too-chunky consistency in hummus was pureed to silk here, but still maintained sufficient girth to adhere to the warm, crisp pita points. The flavors were so artfully interwoven it was impossible for me to break every one down, but the end result was a sweet, smooth, buttery sensation with a mildly acidic finish. A delicate tapenade, rife with the glorious ingredients of the Mediterranean - briny olives, oregano and garlic - was chopped very finely and made the hummus taste even better when the two were combined. A tiny fresh salad with a dusting of feta completed the dish.
When a server recommends fish as ardently as our friendly, young server did, I'm apt to be suspicious the kitchen's trying to move fish that's past its prime. However, something in her sincere nature and the already proven quality ingredients in the Greek Dip, had me biting the line and hook she so convincingly cast for the Sea Bass ($22). Easily the finest piece of fish I've sampled this summer, it sizzled with a buttery pan-sear crunch on both sides. In between, the square of squeaky-fresh fish was clean and milky tasting; the perfect foil to a fried web of string potatoes and a bed of creamy wild mushroom risotto. A sweet/hot chili glaze kicked the mild flavors of the dish into well-balanced high gear. Though I found the Kentucky Bourbon Short Ribs ($18) to be slightly over-sauced with a sweet version of BBQ sauce, the beef ribs were delectable.
Though the server made a few unsubstantiated remarks about the "award winning" She Crab Soup (citing some kind words in City Paper as the source) and an awkward (yet apparently honest) explanation about a misprint on the menu regarding the sole, she was sweet and got the order right and to the table on time, with a smile. Unfortunately, the evening I was there, so was a large, semi-private party of realtor's reveling in and around the bar. Live, loud music that sounded like something you'd hear at a cash bar wedding aggressively spilled over into the dining room, which took away part of the dinner's appeal. Perhaps in the future, weather-allowing, this kind of event might be relocated to the outside patio area or reserved for later at night, after the dinner hour.
For now, the food is exactly where it should be and is a new member on my short list of places to go the next time I crave really, really good food.
Crave Kitchen and Cocktails
1968 Riviera Drive, Unit O
The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 884-1177
http://www.cravemtp.com/
Monday, September 8, 2008
Make New Friends, Keep the Old
This is a lesson I learned way back in my Brownie days. I've consciously tried to remain true to it in all areas of my life (including restaurants) ever since. With so many new restaurants coming onto the Charleston scene of late (has anyone noticed that so many seem to have mono-syllabic, almost primal names like Crave and Fuel?), it's easy to forget about those that have been around for a while. Don't let that happen. Recently, I acquiesced to not one but two very pronounced "crav"ings for two of my favorite comfort foods and was very glad I did.
Sweet Corn
Ben Berryhill's of Red Drum Gastropub version of sweet corn pudding rockets the concept of what is technically a "savory" pudding into an incomparable universe of deliciousness. Typically served with the restaurant's Wood Grilled Salmon, it also soars as a side with the Chicken Enchiladas. The heat from the mole, smoothness of the refried beans and burnt red and chocolate colors of the plated food look and taste even better with the precocious corn husk boat that houses the souffle-like pudding. Each air-infused bite popped with kernels of sugar-sweet corn that tasted like they've been cut from cobs picked just hours ago. The sweetness is tempered with the mildness of eggs and cream to create an indulgence that's worth returning for as often as is humanly possible.
Cheesy Goodness and Crunchy Surprises
One especially lovely morning this past week, as I was planning out my day, it struck. An irrepressible urge to have lunch at Cru Cafe had me in its gustatory grip and wasn't about to let go. So, a little before noon I set out. And, even though I spent several minutes contemplating the menu, I knew exactly what I was there for and why. The Napa Cabbage Chicken Salad (for book research) and the Four Cheese Mac 'n Cheese just for the sheer fun of it. The salad, crunchy and peppered with chef/owner John Zucker's talent for all things Asian, won as a player in the salad chapter of the book (Charleston Chef's Table) and the mac 'n cheese won as what I described to a curious woman as "simply the world's best mac 'n cheese".
The woman, who my money says wasn't from these parts, practically tripped as she gawked, passing my table on the porch where I was quietly reading and eating. "What is that?," she bellowed. Worried I'd done something unspeakable in my overly absorbed state of mind, I tentatively looked up. She was pointing at and practically drooling over my mac 'n cheese as if she hadn't eaten in weeks, which didn't appear to be the case. Needless to say she ordered it. I heard her. Though I wasn't able to stick around and witness her reaction, I'm quite sure she enjoyed it. There is no way anyone, even a lactose-intolerant anyone, could not.
The Red Drum Gastropub
803 Coleman Boulevard, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 849-0313
http://www.reddrumpub.com/
Cru Cafe
18 Pinckney Street, downtown
(853) 534-2434
http://www.crucafe.com/
Sweet Corn
Ben Berryhill's of Red Drum Gastropub version of sweet corn pudding rockets the concept of what is technically a "savory" pudding into an incomparable universe of deliciousness. Typically served with the restaurant's Wood Grilled Salmon, it also soars as a side with the Chicken Enchiladas. The heat from the mole, smoothness of the refried beans and burnt red and chocolate colors of the plated food look and taste even better with the precocious corn husk boat that houses the souffle-like pudding. Each air-infused bite popped with kernels of sugar-sweet corn that tasted like they've been cut from cobs picked just hours ago. The sweetness is tempered with the mildness of eggs and cream to create an indulgence that's worth returning for as often as is humanly possible.
Cheesy Goodness and Crunchy Surprises
One especially lovely morning this past week, as I was planning out my day, it struck. An irrepressible urge to have lunch at Cru Cafe had me in its gustatory grip and wasn't about to let go. So, a little before noon I set out. And, even though I spent several minutes contemplating the menu, I knew exactly what I was there for and why. The Napa Cabbage Chicken Salad (for book research) and the Four Cheese Mac 'n Cheese just for the sheer fun of it. The salad, crunchy and peppered with chef/owner John Zucker's talent for all things Asian, won as a player in the salad chapter of the book (Charleston Chef's Table) and the mac 'n cheese won as what I described to a curious woman as "simply the world's best mac 'n cheese".
The woman, who my money says wasn't from these parts, practically tripped as she gawked, passing my table on the porch where I was quietly reading and eating. "What is that?," she bellowed. Worried I'd done something unspeakable in my overly absorbed state of mind, I tentatively looked up. She was pointing at and practically drooling over my mac 'n cheese as if she hadn't eaten in weeks, which didn't appear to be the case. Needless to say she ordered it. I heard her. Though I wasn't able to stick around and witness her reaction, I'm quite sure she enjoyed it. There is no way anyone, even a lactose-intolerant anyone, could not.
The Red Drum Gastropub
803 Coleman Boulevard, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 849-0313
http://www.reddrumpub.com/
Cru Cafe
18 Pinckney Street, downtown
(853) 534-2434
http://www.crucafe.com/
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Dinner and a Movie
A more soothing combination of words and concepts has seldom been conceived than "dinner and a movie". And, few things go better with a movie than a good dinner and a glass of good wine - unless you count expertly popped popcorn - which, sadly, is even harder to find than dinner and a movie served in a theater.
We had to wait eight long years since the demise of the "original" American Theater on King Street to get another dinner and a movie cinema in greater Charleston. (By original, I refer to the cozy cinema grill period before the owners stripped it of its dining personality and table-side service by installing stadium seats and an over-priced counter full of average food and mostly sullen service).
It was a sad farewell, indeed. The latest Charleston-area cinematic incumbent is called Cinebarre. At barely a month old, its initial performance for this attendee was less than Oscar-worthy. The black and silver stage felt vacuous and cold; literally, like a black hole. I had the impression that I was sinking under the weight of it, suffocated by its impersonal hugeness and manufactured, corporate mood. A small army of friendly, young and capable servers clad all in white did well to mitigate the frigidity of the atmosphere, but overall I feel like the space (formerly Movies at Mount Pleasant) is already as badly in need of a face-lift as Joan Rivers isn't in need of yet another. If they go that route, I hope they'll scrap at least half of the huge movie posters that lilt and pop jarringly from virtually every angle like scary characters in a psychedelic dream.
Better things lurked within our actual theater. As mentioned, the staff was friendly and very helpful in navigating a potentially complicated and intrusive food ordering and delivery system and they did it in a very timely (all of 20 minutes from start to finish) manner. However, one poor woman had to explain the menu and the ordering process (she takes your order before the movie, the food is delivered, if you want anything else you put a white piece of paper in a vertical position, and they bring the bill before the credits) over the literal roar of a pre-movie tidbit of a Rifle Man brief. The black and white images on the big screen seemed to tremble in the wake of the domineering decibel factor. The server offered to look into getting the volume turned down, but as far as I could tell, that never took place. I swear, even Beethoven's hearing could be restored here, at least for the duration of a movie.
Only five people were in our particular theater for an afternoon showing of The Dark Knight. It would be interesting to see if the service is as smooth, fast and unobtrusive in the event of a full house, especially in all eleven theaters. That would be a true coup! A call to the general manager to inquire about the identity/experience of the chef here was not returned, but I've got to expect he or she has an extensive banquet background to put out that much food that fast.
The food, from a menu composed of appetizers, burgers, sandwiches and pizza, was adequate but far from show-stopping or original (not unlike the fact that all of them are named after classic movies or variations on classic characters). One of the more cleverly named items, The Sgt. Pepper stuffed jalapeno peppers ($6), tasted and looked very much like they were pre-assembled and frozen, but were served golden and hot from the fryer and made for satisfying movie munching in-between bites of Heath Ledger's deliciously dark portrayal of The Joker. Cinebarre gets credit for serving a generous and respectable burger and fries (Blue Velvet, $8.50) and its interpretation of a Philly Cheese ($9). Like the peppers, they were hot and heaping, and tasted well with a glass of Chardonnay from the cinema's selection of 12 wines, served by the glass ($4.50-$7) and bottle ($20-$26). Beer and cocktails are also offered, seven days a week, which trumps The Terrace's current no-liquor-Sunday tradition.
Cinebarre is intended to be quiet (someone please turn down the volume!) and sophisticated. As such, it has some more than welcome rules - children under 17 must be accompanied by an adult, and no cell phones or loud talking are allowed.
Cinebarre
963 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 216-2690 - main line
(843) 884-7885 - movie line
http://www.cinnebarre.com/
We had to wait eight long years since the demise of the "original" American Theater on King Street to get another dinner and a movie cinema in greater Charleston. (By original, I refer to the cozy cinema grill period before the owners stripped it of its dining personality and table-side service by installing stadium seats and an over-priced counter full of average food and mostly sullen service).
It was a sad farewell, indeed. The latest Charleston-area cinematic incumbent is called Cinebarre. At barely a month old, its initial performance for this attendee was less than Oscar-worthy. The black and silver stage felt vacuous and cold; literally, like a black hole. I had the impression that I was sinking under the weight of it, suffocated by its impersonal hugeness and manufactured, corporate mood. A small army of friendly, young and capable servers clad all in white did well to mitigate the frigidity of the atmosphere, but overall I feel like the space (formerly Movies at Mount Pleasant) is already as badly in need of a face-lift as Joan Rivers isn't in need of yet another. If they go that route, I hope they'll scrap at least half of the huge movie posters that lilt and pop jarringly from virtually every angle like scary characters in a psychedelic dream.
Better things lurked within our actual theater. As mentioned, the staff was friendly and very helpful in navigating a potentially complicated and intrusive food ordering and delivery system and they did it in a very timely (all of 20 minutes from start to finish) manner. However, one poor woman had to explain the menu and the ordering process (she takes your order before the movie, the food is delivered, if you want anything else you put a white piece of paper in a vertical position, and they bring the bill before the credits) over the literal roar of a pre-movie tidbit of a Rifle Man brief. The black and white images on the big screen seemed to tremble in the wake of the domineering decibel factor. The server offered to look into getting the volume turned down, but as far as I could tell, that never took place. I swear, even Beethoven's hearing could be restored here, at least for the duration of a movie.
Only five people were in our particular theater for an afternoon showing of The Dark Knight. It would be interesting to see if the service is as smooth, fast and unobtrusive in the event of a full house, especially in all eleven theaters. That would be a true coup! A call to the general manager to inquire about the identity/experience of the chef here was not returned, but I've got to expect he or she has an extensive banquet background to put out that much food that fast.
The food, from a menu composed of appetizers, burgers, sandwiches and pizza, was adequate but far from show-stopping or original (not unlike the fact that all of them are named after classic movies or variations on classic characters). One of the more cleverly named items, The Sgt. Pepper stuffed jalapeno peppers ($6), tasted and looked very much like they were pre-assembled and frozen, but were served golden and hot from the fryer and made for satisfying movie munching in-between bites of Heath Ledger's deliciously dark portrayal of The Joker. Cinebarre gets credit for serving a generous and respectable burger and fries (Blue Velvet, $8.50) and its interpretation of a Philly Cheese ($9). Like the peppers, they were hot and heaping, and tasted well with a glass of Chardonnay from the cinema's selection of 12 wines, served by the glass ($4.50-$7) and bottle ($20-$26). Beer and cocktails are also offered, seven days a week, which trumps The Terrace's current no-liquor-Sunday tradition.
Cinebarre is intended to be quiet (someone please turn down the volume!) and sophisticated. As such, it has some more than welcome rules - children under 17 must be accompanied by an adult, and no cell phones or loud talking are allowed.
Cinebarre
963 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 216-2690 - main line
(843) 884-7885 - movie line
http://www.cinnebarre.com/
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