The Weight of Balance

There was a big brouhaha last week when America learned what the President and his family and friends ate during their Super Bowl party. The First Lady talked about it on the Today Show, saying that the fattening feast of kielbasa, pizza (deep-dish, at that), hot dogs, etc., reflected her belief in "balance." Then she went on to say it was o.k. to be indulgent at times - that was only realistic, for her and her family.

As far as I'm concerned, they can eat what they want. In many ways, I agreed with her, though I felt their feast could have been more well-rounded. However, I felt her comments and especially the ensuing debates I read and heard about them throughout the week, were reflective of an underlying misunderstanding, especially in this country, about what constitutes "balanced" and healthy eating.

I'm not a nutritionist and I'm not the food police. In truth, I really enjoy eating - when I'm hungry. Most of the time, I especially enjoy fresh fruits, fresh vegetables, grains, fish and other healthful foods. But, there are times, when I really want a juicy burger, bacon with my eggs, or (my biggest weakness) a leg of fried chicken with a side of ooey, gooey mac 'n cheese. When that happens, usually about once a week, I go for it and enjoy it, guilt-free, but I stop when I'm full or just getting there. Then, my personal balance kicks in. I chase these indulgences with more "chaste" food options - a light dinner, a bigger work-out the next day. This plan works for me.

I wish more of us would embrace this model or something similar that works for them. I just cringe when I hear people telling me they're on a "diet" and will be eating virtually nothing but celery until they've lost 20 pounds. It's equally disturbing to witness, as is too often the case, people gorging on (usually unhealthy) food so quickly they can't even taste it or enjoy it. Or, when I see kids "sneaking" a piece of candy or chocolate because someone told them it was "bad" for them. This notion that food is bad or something to be afraid of or feel guilty about is all too prevalent and, in my opinion, is a driving force behind our profound obesity epidemic.

As Americans, I wish we could move away from it and employ a sense of balance and especially ENJOYMENT in eating. Food is good, it is our friend. It is a source of nurturing. We can't live without it. Let's introduce our children, early-on, to the pleasures of a balanced table and fresh, delicious, non-processed foods and produce. In this way, they will naturally develop palates that crave a rainbow of fresh, real food, and, yes, that occasional indulgence. Not only will they enjoy food more, they will live longer, happier, lives as a result.

Graze is Good

When I think of grazing, I think of cows chomping their way lazily through a green, grassy meadow. It's a meandering, bucolic feed that both satisfies and nurtures without gut-busting greed or over-consumption distress.

Graze, a four month-old restaurant serving what it bills as "creative casual cuisine" from the space that was Coco's for a decade, serves more than a meadow. It whips up a veritable international forest via an expansive menu that borrows from the larders of Korea, France, the American south, Italy and more. Graze is green, too, both literally and figuratively. Management adheres to the once trendy, now nearly mandatory farm-to-table modus operandi. The dark, dreary and cramped Coco's predecessor has morphed into a light, fresh space with grassy green walls and little glass pots of lime green grass stationed throughout. Art created by local artists dress the walls and change seasonally with the menu.

Glaze is modern, clean, and inviting. Aside from being a little loud, I thoroughly enjoyed it. The server knew what she was talking about and was pleasant and professional from start to finish. The food is solidly (if not magically) palatable and creative as prepared by former Sette co-workers and Graze co-owners/chefs Michael Karkut and Derek Lathan. Although the menu suggests you might be in for a light graze with headings like "Tiny Grazing," don't be fooled. The Lobster Mac 'n Cheese ($10, pictured above), a sea of melting fontina and cheddar with generous chunks of fresh, sweet lobster and points of fresh thyme and black pepper that it was, proved to be anything but "tiny" in any way, shape or form. This good-enough-alone-reason-to-visit-Graze dish is ample enough to jump-start four women's appetites and bull whip one very hungry man's by the time his spoon hits the bottom of the bowl. But, boy, was it good!

Good is what Graze is all about, I think. There are ample choices, ample portions and very fair prices. The Roasted Leg of Lamb Gyro ($10, lunch menu) showcased tender, pink shards of lamb on fresh, dewy pita bread and a tart/tangy cucumber yogurt sauce, purposely served minus the dill, which I didn't miss at all. Another hearty sandwich is to be found in the sturdy, flavorful prime rib slices topped with freshly fried onion slices and a horseradish mayo, all on a fresh challah bun ($11, lunch menu). Salads, dressings and soups are all made in-house and reflect the same kind of freshness and appropriately paired flavor whimsy.

Graze seems to have attracted a loyal and diverse herd of patrons. Both times I've visited, it's been packed, even standing room only, chock full of everything from little old bespectacled ladies reading menus through magnifying glasses, couples sipping wine and holding hands, and bow tie- clad businessmen digging into Graze's big, beefy grass-fed (of course!) burgers ($9, lunch menu). No surprise, there is really nothing not to like here. The menu offers something for everyone (without over-doing it and risking mediocrity or kitchen confusion), the food is good, and the experience is pleasant without breaking the bank. But, unless you're very good and can resist the mac 'n cheese and fries, don't expect to depart on light feet. You'll leave well-fed and ready for a happy nap out in a warm pasture under the welcome shade of a sage, green tree dreaming of a meal well spent.

Graze
863 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 606-2493
www.grazecharleston.com

Lunch/Dinner

Sage Green Apple and Aged Cheddar Tart

.....An excerpt from "Tart Love"

Apples sit firmly atop my favorite fall/winter food heap. Winesap, Honeycrisp, McIntosh and oodles of other heirloom varieties tempt me with their tart, sweet and crisp goodness. Eaten raw, out of the palm or nestled into a tart, apples offer infinite variety and goodness.

In this tart, the play is on the perennial pairing of apples and cheese. The edgy tartness of Granny Smith apples is idyllic with a best-quality aged, extra sharp cheddar cheese. Sage seals the deal with its effortlessly earthy touch.

Compile it just before your cocktail guests arrive and bake while they wait. The house is filled with wonderful aromas and the tart bakes in just 20 - 25 minutes. Serve it warm while the cheese is still gooey and gently oozing from the edges of the tart wedges. This tart makes a perfect appetizer or pair it with a salad for a complete meal.

(Makes 9 appetizer portions or 4 entree portions)

Equipment Needed: parchment paper

1 sheet Pepperidge Farm puff pastry, thawed according to package directions

1 egg wash - yolk, pinch salt, splash water, blended together

2 medium Granny Smith apples, halved, cored and sliced very thinly

2 tablespoons unsalted, sweet butter

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Pinch kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon dried sage leaves

3 cups grated extra sharp, best-quality yellow cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 400F. Arrange the thawed pastry on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Chill the pastry in the refrigerator while prepping the filling. Prepare the egg wash and briefly set aside.

Cut the apples, skin-on, very thinly. They should be so thin that you can practically see through them. Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the sliced apples, pepper, salt and sage. Toss the seasoned apples to coat, and cook for five minutes, or until the apples have just begun to soften and lightly brown. Remove from the heat, place in a bowl, and refrigerate until they are cool (about 15 - 20 minutes).

Meanwhile, grate the cheese with a box grater for a medium-sized grate. When the apples are cool, toss half of the cheese with the apples. Arrange this mixture in the center of the puff pastry sheet, spreading gently and evenly to the edges, leaving an 1/2" border of naked pastry. Top the apples evenly with the remaining cheese, taking care not to drizzle over the clean pastry border. Brush the naked pastry border lightly with the egg wash using a pastry brush. Bake for 20 - 25 minutes or until the pastry is fully puffed, a rich golden brown, and the cheese is melted and bubbling. Allow to cool for 10 minutes and serve immediately while still warm.

For appetizer portions, cut through the tart in three even bars, both vertically and horizontally. For entree portions, cut the tart into four even squares. Garnish with a final pass of ground black pepper and a light drizzle of dried sage leaves if desired.

Tart Love Cover Is Born

So excited to finally have a look for my next book, all about wonderful tarts, both sweet and savory.

This is the finalized cover which features the Pear and Chocolate Tartlets from the book, to be released September 1, 2011 (Gibbs Smith). Bravo to Helene DuJardin for her smashing styling and photography and to the talented design team at Gibbs Smith.

Look for upcoming posts featuring recipes from the book to whet your appetite for a fall full of tart love.

Fondly, Holly

Hotmail/Facebook Hacker on the Prowl

Hello friends,

I want to make you aware of a situation I am dealing with. No, I am not stranded in Scotland, as some sick hacker would have any of my email contacts, personal or professional believe.

I want to make all of you aware of a few things. Aside from being extremely frustrated, I am fine! Also, please do not be concerned for any safety compromise on your end. Just delete the message. They've managed to access my password, not yours! Please accept my sincere apologies for this. Also, take a note of warning. Be extremely wary of any email, no matter HOW VALID it looks, asking you for anything suspect. Trust your gut!

I'm currently working on convincing Hotmail and Facebook that I am who I am - crazy! Once it's resolved, I should be back on track with a valid password and hotmail account and more tasty food news.

Best, Holly

Super Sundays in Charleston

Ahh, Sunday mornings. The stuff of reading The New York Times and lazily sipping coffee in bed.

In Charleston, it's all that and more. The day begins with a haunting bout of old church bells pealing, usually peaking at about 10 a.m. and finishing about noon. I almost always use this time to walk and build up my appetite for the day for all of the juicy Sunday offerings to be found here.

One of the juiciest, and perhaps with the largest underground following, is Sticky Bun Sunday at WildFlour Pastry. Talented chef/owner Lauren Mitterer opens her doors at 8 a.m. to a fervent crowd of Sticky Bun worshipers who have followed their noses down this unsuspecting stretch of Spring Street to find the golden, caramelized goods. The sticky bun party lasts until 1 p.m. where revelers get their fill of said buns (either slathered with frosting or with pecans as pictured) for a scant couple of bucks, which go down oh-so-well with a steaming cup of hot milk, chai tea, coffee or mocha, all in the sincere and doting presence of always hands-on chef Lauren. If buns aren't your thing, fuel up on savory or sweet tarts, myriad cookies and gorgeous cupcakes.

If you're like me, you'll save half the bun for later, and after a few hours, head on downtown to Tristan, in my mind one of the best brunch spots in town. Unlike those clunky, heavy buffet brunches that rattle the memories of my youth, Tristan has a fabulously light and diverse a la carte offering, complete with a trio of live musicians and seamless service. It's the kind of experience that invites lingering and solitude for the right price, to boot. You can be happy there alone (as I was this morning) or in a group of multi-generational families, friends and even young lovers. All were present to take in Chef Nate Whiting's sophisticated yet never over-dressed and always delicious fare.

Warm, assorted buns and creamery butter and endless mimosas and chunky Bloody Mary's ($10) start the show rolling on linen-lined tables on a stage of refreshingly minimalist decor that invites without suppressing formality. Benedicts, waffles, burgers and the unusually well done usual brunch suspects are all offered, but, so too, are a plethora of extra special gems worthy of note. In particular, the Bergamo Breakfast, which features super creamy, fluffy (almost souffle-like) polenta over a bed of gooey, fragrant Taleggio cheese topped with a tiny quail egg fresh from Sumpter, SC and dressed with delicious dots of truffle butter ($13). Or, try the sophisticated shrimp and grits in a sweet/spicy tomato gravy enhanced with pungent local shrimp and perfect seasoning ($14).

One leaves Tristan feeling super satisfied and sated, but not weighed down. The perfect prelude to a Sunday afternoon nap.

WildFlour Pastry
735 Spring Street, downtown Charleston
(843) 327-2621
www.wildflourpastry.com

Tristan
10 Linguard Street, downtown Charleston
(843) 534-2155
www.tristandining.com

Hampton Roads Picks Charleston Chef's Table

Charleston Chef's Table Cookbook was selected as one of the top six cookbooks for Hampton Roads annual selection. Thank you and go Charleston!

http://hamptonroads.com/2011/01/halfdozen-cookbook-winners-announced-congrats