A more soothing combination of words and concepts has seldom been conceived than "dinner and a movie". And, few things go better with a movie than a good dinner and a glass of good wine - unless you count expertly popped popcorn - which, sadly, is even harder to find than dinner and a movie served in a theater.
We had to wait eight long years since the demise of the "original" American Theater on King Street to get another dinner and a movie cinema in greater Charleston. (By original, I refer to the cozy cinema grill period before the owners stripped it of its dining personality and table-side service by installing stadium seats and an over-priced counter full of average food and mostly sullen service).
It was a sad farewell, indeed. The latest Charleston-area cinematic incumbent is called Cinebarre. At barely a month old, its initial performance for this attendee was less than Oscar-worthy. The black and silver stage felt vacuous and cold; literally, like a black hole. I had the impression that I was sinking under the weight of it, suffocated by its impersonal hugeness and manufactured, corporate mood. A small army of friendly, young and capable servers clad all in white did well to mitigate the frigidity of the atmosphere, but overall I feel like the space (formerly Movies at Mount Pleasant) is already as badly in need of a face-lift as Joan Rivers isn't in need of yet another. If they go that route, I hope they'll scrap at least half of the huge movie posters that lilt and pop jarringly from virtually every angle like scary characters in a psychedelic dream.
Better things lurked within our actual theater. As mentioned, the staff was friendly and very helpful in navigating a potentially complicated and intrusive food ordering and delivery system and they did it in a very timely (all of 20 minutes from start to finish) manner. However, one poor woman had to explain the menu and the ordering process (she takes your order before the movie, the food is delivered, if you want anything else you put a white piece of paper in a vertical position, and they bring the bill before the credits) over the literal roar of a pre-movie tidbit of a Rifle Man brief. The black and white images on the big screen seemed to tremble in the wake of the domineering decibel factor. The server offered to look into getting the volume turned down, but as far as I could tell, that never took place. I swear, even Beethoven's hearing could be restored here, at least for the duration of a movie.
Only five people were in our particular theater for an afternoon showing of The Dark Knight. It would be interesting to see if the service is as smooth, fast and unobtrusive in the event of a full house, especially in all eleven theaters. That would be a true coup! A call to the general manager to inquire about the identity/experience of the chef here was not returned, but I've got to expect he or she has an extensive banquet background to put out that much food that fast.
The food, from a menu composed of appetizers, burgers, sandwiches and pizza, was adequate but far from show-stopping or original (not unlike the fact that all of them are named after classic movies or variations on classic characters). One of the more cleverly named items, The Sgt. Pepper stuffed jalapeno peppers ($6), tasted and looked very much like they were pre-assembled and frozen, but were served golden and hot from the fryer and made for satisfying movie munching in-between bites of Heath Ledger's deliciously dark portrayal of The Joker. Cinebarre gets credit for serving a generous and respectable burger and fries (Blue Velvet, $8.50) and its interpretation of a Philly Cheese ($9). Like the peppers, they were hot and heaping, and tasted well with a glass of Chardonnay from the cinema's selection of 12 wines, served by the glass ($4.50-$7) and bottle ($20-$26). Beer and cocktails are also offered, seven days a week, which trumps The Terrace's current no-liquor-Sunday tradition.
Cinebarre is intended to be quiet (someone please turn down the volume!) and sophisticated. As such, it has some more than welcome rules - children under 17 must be accompanied by an adult, and no cell phones or loud talking are allowed.
Cinebarre
963 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 216-2690 - main line
(843) 884-7885 - movie line
http://www.cinnebarre.com/
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Monday, July 21, 2008
The Return of Enzo
Enzo Steffenelli, the petite Swiss with a big smile, is back in the kitchen after a brief stint selling printers (this according to his marketing communications manager, Elizabeth Kelly).
He's crossed the street from his longtime haunt, the Sea Island Grill, and set up shop at the two month-old (The) Lettered Olive restaurant. Still loyal to Wild Dunes Resort, Steffenelli's latest restaurant is decidedly more casual and family friendly than the grill and bears the sandy, seashore palette of its name, which happens to be South Carolina's official state seashell. Airy, spacious and attractive, The Lettered Olive attracts a feisty, familial crowd, so be prepared to deal with the occasional toddler's temper tantrum and not-so-hushed tsk tsk's of a frustrated mom or two.
Steffenelli's expansive, well-executed menu of sophisticated mainstays with a European twist will distract you from the noise into a quiet, well-sated place at a fair price. Indeed, entrees range from the low $20's to a somewhat steep mid $30's, but the portions are so fantastically large, and the quality of the food so high, potential wallet pain is instantly mitigated.
The chef explores the globe, dipping into the Lowcountry, the Caribbean, Italy, France and Asia for inspiration and offering everything from oak fired flatbreads to a gorgeous and gargantuan Half Asian Five Spice Duck with Orange-Green Peppercorn Sauce ($25). Another equally large and visually impressive dish (I did not taste this) is the Charleston Red Rice, a virtual platter of the Lowcountry favorite topped with a seafood cornucopia of shrimp, mussels, scallops and lobster ($32). Entrees include a choice of two sides from a selection of eight. A basil-rich, fresh-from-the-garden Mediterranean ratatouille was smashing; so, too the "best ever" mac n' cheese. It was crunchy with bread crumbs and butter and smooth with just the right amount of cheese.
Service fluttered about the large space with maximum efficiency. Combining solid food, easy parking and Steffenelli's proven talent, The Lettered Olive makes a series of compelling arguments for a most rewarding dining experience. And, that's not just for tourists.
The Lettered Olive
Wild Dunes Resort, Isle of Palms
(843) 577-9100
http://www.wilddunes.com/
He's crossed the street from his longtime haunt, the Sea Island Grill, and set up shop at the two month-old (The) Lettered Olive restaurant. Still loyal to Wild Dunes Resort, Steffenelli's latest restaurant is decidedly more casual and family friendly than the grill and bears the sandy, seashore palette of its name, which happens to be South Carolina's official state seashell. Airy, spacious and attractive, The Lettered Olive attracts a feisty, familial crowd, so be prepared to deal with the occasional toddler's temper tantrum and not-so-hushed tsk tsk's of a frustrated mom or two.
Steffenelli's expansive, well-executed menu of sophisticated mainstays with a European twist will distract you from the noise into a quiet, well-sated place at a fair price. Indeed, entrees range from the low $20's to a somewhat steep mid $30's, but the portions are so fantastically large, and the quality of the food so high, potential wallet pain is instantly mitigated.
The chef explores the globe, dipping into the Lowcountry, the Caribbean, Italy, France and Asia for inspiration and offering everything from oak fired flatbreads to a gorgeous and gargantuan Half Asian Five Spice Duck with Orange-Green Peppercorn Sauce ($25). Another equally large and visually impressive dish (I did not taste this) is the Charleston Red Rice, a virtual platter of the Lowcountry favorite topped with a seafood cornucopia of shrimp, mussels, scallops and lobster ($32). Entrees include a choice of two sides from a selection of eight. A basil-rich, fresh-from-the-garden Mediterranean ratatouille was smashing; so, too the "best ever" mac n' cheese. It was crunchy with bread crumbs and butter and smooth with just the right amount of cheese.
Service fluttered about the large space with maximum efficiency. Combining solid food, easy parking and Steffenelli's proven talent, The Lettered Olive makes a series of compelling arguments for a most rewarding dining experience. And, that's not just for tourists.
The Lettered Olive
Wild Dunes Resort, Isle of Palms
(843) 577-9100
http://www.wilddunes.com/
Monday, July 7, 2008
In Between Sets
This weekend's serving of Wimbledon tennis was bigger and better than a heaping bowl of fresh strawberries and clotted cream at The All England Club. Between the Williams' sister act and the nail-biting drama of Rafa and Roger's epic five-hour showdown (not counting rain delays) it was enough to build up a serious appetite for adrenaline-subduing sustenance. But what true little-yellow-ball-watching- addict can pull herself away from the television set?
Not this one, so on Saturday morning I decided to follow up on a previous visit to the newly minted, curiously named Caviar & Bananas and order several items for delivery (free, downtown for all orders $20 or more) to my front door. My initial gustatory foray there was, shall we say, less than ripely rewarding, so this seemed like a prime time to follow through on fairness.
Though Caviar & Bananas, with all its sparkling stainless steel shelving, white walls, and gourmet goods, delivers a strong (albeit not entirely original) cosmopolitan show and ample food choices (sandwiches, salads, over 50 prepared foods and coffee), on my first visit it proved thin in some areas. Namely, the sandwiches. The roast beef, onion confit special I ordered ($9) was way too lean for the money and heavy on grilled bread. Also, at this station (like the others), there seemed to be real confusion on the part of the many customers about ordering and payment procedures. At one point, there were nine people standing around and one guy with a note pad taking orders while he squeezed in making and issuing sandwiches whenever possible.
Owned by a young husband/wife team who share a yen for and experience in good food with an able-bodied executive chef at the helm, the young restaurant/store likely has a bright future. A centrally positioned host/hostess might help minimize the ordering and payment confusion to novice diners here and also make it feel more like the truly neighborhood place it is trying to be and its central COC-based location virtually mandates.
The food I ordered for delivery (free for downtown for orders $20 and over) on Saturday to make it through the Williams' match came within twenty minutes and was personally delivered by co-owner Kris Furniss, which I thought reflected sincere interest in customer service - always a great thing. Wrapped up in neat little white boxes and sealed with logo stickers for a grand total of $38, all the food was solid, but nothing was remarkable. Notable winners included the flavorful Israeli Couscous Salad and Roasted Beet-Goat Cheese Salad. The Pomegranate-Cinnamon Lacquered Duck, Poached Salmon and Chicken Tagine faltered on various seasoning and cooking temperature fronts.
For these prices, Caviar & Bananas is going to have to dig a little bit deeper to find its best service groove. Fully aware of Ulak's talents (he described his broad Prepared Food Selections as a complete representation of his culinary professional career), I'm confident they'll get there. I'm guessing such an expansive menu is putting some hefty demands on maximum quality control that will get rectified in time. In the meantime, Caviar & Bananas is to be lauded for being the cleanest and most savory smelling restaurant I've entered in a long time.
Moving on to Sunday, huge kudos to the stellar service staff, lush setting and multi-stationed Sunday brunch buffet at Grill 225 for making time I was reluctantly required to spend away from the Rafa/Roger match well worth the investment. For $39 per person, with a complementary glass of "Champagne" (well, it's "California" Champagne, but still a nice touch), this is undoubtedly the most sophisticated brunch downtown. The private, quiet confines of the chocolate velvet-padded booths are a delight, and so too are classic treats like baked ham and an endless array of well-executed, ever-changing warm plates and crepe bar. Loosen your buckle a bit and go ahead and dig into pastry chef Gerry Elliot's best-ever pecan pie with a big dollop of whipped cream. Fresh, rustic-style, flaky pastry, mounds of fresh pecans and a slightly sweet, toasted filling make it as unique and unforgettable as the match I almost missed, and likely those strawberries and cream, too.
Caviar & Bananas
51 George Street, Downtown
(843) 577-7757
http://www.caviarandbananas.com/
Grill 225
225 East Bay Street, downtown
(843) 266-4222
http://www.grill225.com/
Not this one, so on Saturday morning I decided to follow up on a previous visit to the newly minted, curiously named Caviar & Bananas and order several items for delivery (free, downtown for all orders $20 or more) to my front door. My initial gustatory foray there was, shall we say, less than ripely rewarding, so this seemed like a prime time to follow through on fairness.
Though Caviar & Bananas, with all its sparkling stainless steel shelving, white walls, and gourmet goods, delivers a strong (albeit not entirely original) cosmopolitan show and ample food choices (sandwiches, salads, over 50 prepared foods and coffee), on my first visit it proved thin in some areas. Namely, the sandwiches. The roast beef, onion confit special I ordered ($9) was way too lean for the money and heavy on grilled bread. Also, at this station (like the others), there seemed to be real confusion on the part of the many customers about ordering and payment procedures. At one point, there were nine people standing around and one guy with a note pad taking orders while he squeezed in making and issuing sandwiches whenever possible.
Owned by a young husband/wife team who share a yen for and experience in good food with an able-bodied executive chef at the helm, the young restaurant/store likely has a bright future. A centrally positioned host/hostess might help minimize the ordering and payment confusion to novice diners here and also make it feel more like the truly neighborhood place it is trying to be and its central COC-based location virtually mandates.
The food I ordered for delivery (free for downtown for orders $20 and over) on Saturday to make it through the Williams' match came within twenty minutes and was personally delivered by co-owner Kris Furniss, which I thought reflected sincere interest in customer service - always a great thing. Wrapped up in neat little white boxes and sealed with logo stickers for a grand total of $38, all the food was solid, but nothing was remarkable. Notable winners included the flavorful Israeli Couscous Salad and Roasted Beet-Goat Cheese Salad. The Pomegranate-Cinnamon Lacquered Duck, Poached Salmon and Chicken Tagine faltered on various seasoning and cooking temperature fronts.
For these prices, Caviar & Bananas is going to have to dig a little bit deeper to find its best service groove. Fully aware of Ulak's talents (he described his broad Prepared Food Selections as a complete representation of his culinary professional career), I'm confident they'll get there. I'm guessing such an expansive menu is putting some hefty demands on maximum quality control that will get rectified in time. In the meantime, Caviar & Bananas is to be lauded for being the cleanest and most savory smelling restaurant I've entered in a long time.
Moving on to Sunday, huge kudos to the stellar service staff, lush setting and multi-stationed Sunday brunch buffet at Grill 225 for making time I was reluctantly required to spend away from the Rafa/Roger match well worth the investment. For $39 per person, with a complementary glass of "Champagne" (well, it's "California" Champagne, but still a nice touch), this is undoubtedly the most sophisticated brunch downtown. The private, quiet confines of the chocolate velvet-padded booths are a delight, and so too are classic treats like baked ham and an endless array of well-executed, ever-changing warm plates and crepe bar. Loosen your buckle a bit and go ahead and dig into pastry chef Gerry Elliot's best-ever pecan pie with a big dollop of whipped cream. Fresh, rustic-style, flaky pastry, mounds of fresh pecans and a slightly sweet, toasted filling make it as unique and unforgettable as the match I almost missed, and likely those strawberries and cream, too.
Caviar & Bananas
51 George Street, Downtown
(843) 577-7757
http://www.caviarandbananas.com/
Grill 225
225 East Bay Street, downtown
(843) 266-4222
http://www.grill225.com/
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Fuel Find
Fuel, its scarcity and its eerily escalating price tag, seems to be on every one's mind these days. It's also the simple name of a brand new (as in 1 1/2 weeks new) restaurant situated across the street from both Lana Restaurant Cafe & Bar and Hominy Grill on the corner of Cannon and Rutledge, rendering this one of Charleston's most ample corners for tasty and diverse food finds.
Situated in a former filling station, Fuel Caribbean Cantina skips the tacky frills of palm fronds and Tiki huts and stays true to the structure's original function. It's adorned with smart-looking mechanic lights and has round, 50's something retro curves, bright splashes of white paint and a deliberately worn look (complete with period filling tanks) that recall a cafe that would fit right in on the edge of any white sand-meets-azur Caribbean beach.
Alas it is not, at least for now, appointed with functioning air conditioning. "We're working it out," our water girl vaguely explained. A noon-ish working lunch or even evening drinks and light bites on a sultry, still August evening sans air conditioning is a daunting prospect to say the least, even for the most ardent masochist in Charleston's dewy summer midst. This and a few other minor mechanical hiccups will likely be worked out as Fuel matures, and I'll come back with a review and more information in another month or two.
I'm happy to briefly report, however, that Fuel is coming up with the culinary goods early on in the game. All the food I sampled, including a cumin-rich Cuban Black Bean Soup ($3, cup), Grilled (local) Mahi Mahi Tacos ($10) and a stunning Tropical Seafood Bouyon ($15) were lovely renditions of various island classics and loaded with complimentary contrasting layers of pleasant spice heat, sweetness and acidic clarity. Free and plentiful parking is a bonus in an increasingly congested downtown.
Fuel Caribbean Cantina
211 Rutledge Avenue, downtown
(843) 737-5959
Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.- 11 p.m.
Situated in a former filling station, Fuel Caribbean Cantina skips the tacky frills of palm fronds and Tiki huts and stays true to the structure's original function. It's adorned with smart-looking mechanic lights and has round, 50's something retro curves, bright splashes of white paint and a deliberately worn look (complete with period filling tanks) that recall a cafe that would fit right in on the edge of any white sand-meets-azur Caribbean beach.
Alas it is not, at least for now, appointed with functioning air conditioning. "We're working it out," our water girl vaguely explained. A noon-ish working lunch or even evening drinks and light bites on a sultry, still August evening sans air conditioning is a daunting prospect to say the least, even for the most ardent masochist in Charleston's dewy summer midst. This and a few other minor mechanical hiccups will likely be worked out as Fuel matures, and I'll come back with a review and more information in another month or two.
I'm happy to briefly report, however, that Fuel is coming up with the culinary goods early on in the game. All the food I sampled, including a cumin-rich Cuban Black Bean Soup ($3, cup), Grilled (local) Mahi Mahi Tacos ($10) and a stunning Tropical Seafood Bouyon ($15) were lovely renditions of various island classics and loaded with complimentary contrasting layers of pleasant spice heat, sweetness and acidic clarity. Free and plentiful parking is a bonus in an increasingly congested downtown.
Fuel Caribbean Cantina
211 Rutledge Avenue, downtown
(843) 737-5959
Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.- 11 p.m.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Lucca Love
Talented chef Ken Vedrinski hopes to continue his love affair with all things Italian and homey with his next restaurant, Trattoria Lucca, scheduled to open sometime in late June.
The decorated chef has never been further removed from his once ultra-fancy, classic Woodland's roots or even from his moderately fancy Italian roots at his current Daniel Island restaurant, Sienna. Lucca will take him closer to his simple, familial, Italian inspirations than ever before and at markedly lower price points he hopes will appeal to a broad base of individuals in search of well-prepared, Tuscan style fare.
The chef and his young team, including Sienna pastry chef Caitlin Kelly (who will double as pastry chef at Lucca) and general manager Adam Verona, recently gathered to give a small group of food journalists a sneak preview of things soon to come at Lucca. Situated in the heart of a well-seasoned, residential neighborhood just off the Crosstown at the corner of Ashe and Bogard, Vedrinski envisions it as a place where people can walk and wind their way through the streets of Charleston to find a secret, neighborhood surprise "with the best olive oil in town," just as you might in the town of Lucca, Italy that inspired the new restaurant's name.
Seating will be intimate, with all of 52 covers and a small bar and no-reservations-required community table. Tables and chairs will be movable to invite spontaneous seating innovations as needed. Like the tables, the menu will revolve to reflect the season, availability and inspiration, but will be categorized under three sections: Antipasti, Primi and Secondi courses, with prices (on the preview menu) ranging from just $6-$18. The initial menu includes the likes of Grilled Endive with Pecorino, Ruganso (Sicilian Sheep Cheese) with Tuscan Wild Flower Honey, and Grilled Painted Hills Hanger Steak with Warm Owls Nest Heirloom Tomato Salad, Gorgonzola, Arugula Salad, Vin Cotto.
The signature Sunday event will be Lucca's Family Supper Sundays where Vedrinski and his team will offer two seatings of a pre-established menu. The plan is to keep filling every empty bowl until participants cry uncle, or simply burst with pasta joy. The restaurant's warm beige, off-white and gray/green tones are the brainchild of local designer Heather Wilson.
The slightly mysterious location, to those not terribly familiar with the neighborhood, is actually quite simple to find. Most serendipitously, I found literal directions while conducting a research lunch just an hour before the scheduled Lucca preview at nearby Alluette's Cafe. Owner Alluette Jones just happened to hand me a write-up on one of her long-defunct restaurants, The Patio Tea Room, to peruse while dining. In addition to a colorful description of Alluette and The Patio, the article directed interested diners to take King Street to Spring Street, take a left onto Spring, and take a right on Ashe to Bogard, just a block down. This was indeed the exact same location of what is now (or soon to be Lucca). Talk about serious kismet! Let's hope it graces the doors of Lucca, as it apparently did The Patio, which Vedrinski tells me was once the haunt of Al Sharpton and other civil rights notables while they were visiting Charleston.
Look for further details on the precise opening date, telephone number, web site and hours of operation as they surface.
Trattoria Lucca
41-A Bogard Street, downtown
The decorated chef has never been further removed from his once ultra-fancy, classic Woodland's roots or even from his moderately fancy Italian roots at his current Daniel Island restaurant, Sienna. Lucca will take him closer to his simple, familial, Italian inspirations than ever before and at markedly lower price points he hopes will appeal to a broad base of individuals in search of well-prepared, Tuscan style fare.
The chef and his young team, including Sienna pastry chef Caitlin Kelly (who will double as pastry chef at Lucca) and general manager Adam Verona, recently gathered to give a small group of food journalists a sneak preview of things soon to come at Lucca. Situated in the heart of a well-seasoned, residential neighborhood just off the Crosstown at the corner of Ashe and Bogard, Vedrinski envisions it as a place where people can walk and wind their way through the streets of Charleston to find a secret, neighborhood surprise "with the best olive oil in town," just as you might in the town of Lucca, Italy that inspired the new restaurant's name.
Seating will be intimate, with all of 52 covers and a small bar and no-reservations-required community table. Tables and chairs will be movable to invite spontaneous seating innovations as needed. Like the tables, the menu will revolve to reflect the season, availability and inspiration, but will be categorized under three sections: Antipasti, Primi and Secondi courses, with prices (on the preview menu) ranging from just $6-$18. The initial menu includes the likes of Grilled Endive with Pecorino, Ruganso (Sicilian Sheep Cheese) with Tuscan Wild Flower Honey, and Grilled Painted Hills Hanger Steak with Warm Owls Nest Heirloom Tomato Salad, Gorgonzola, Arugula Salad, Vin Cotto.
The signature Sunday event will be Lucca's Family Supper Sundays where Vedrinski and his team will offer two seatings of a pre-established menu. The plan is to keep filling every empty bowl until participants cry uncle, or simply burst with pasta joy. The restaurant's warm beige, off-white and gray/green tones are the brainchild of local designer Heather Wilson.
The slightly mysterious location, to those not terribly familiar with the neighborhood, is actually quite simple to find. Most serendipitously, I found literal directions while conducting a research lunch just an hour before the scheduled Lucca preview at nearby Alluette's Cafe. Owner Alluette Jones just happened to hand me a write-up on one of her long-defunct restaurants, The Patio Tea Room, to peruse while dining. In addition to a colorful description of Alluette and The Patio, the article directed interested diners to take King Street to Spring Street, take a left onto Spring, and take a right on Ashe to Bogard, just a block down. This was indeed the exact same location of what is now (or soon to be Lucca). Talk about serious kismet! Let's hope it graces the doors of Lucca, as it apparently did The Patio, which Vedrinski tells me was once the haunt of Al Sharpton and other civil rights notables while they were visiting Charleston.
Look for further details on the precise opening date, telephone number, web site and hours of operation as they surface.
Trattoria Lucca
41-A Bogard Street, downtown
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Back In Action
I've been admittedly remiss updating this blog for the past two months, but it's not because the Charleston food scene is quiet - far from it. Instead, it's because I was very busy finishing and editing the farmers' market cookbook (see Holly Herrick's Southern Slow Food link on the home page for more on this) to meet my June 1 deadline.
It's now safely in the publisher's hands in the process of becoming a book, which is exciting, especially because the farmers shared so much wonderful information and stories with me along our 7-month research and writing journey. Now that it's submitted, I'm thrilled to be able to jump back into the Charleston restaurant scene (and this blog) with renewed vigor as I start to further research my next cookbook. Without providing too much advance information, suffice to say, it will be about Charleston's great restaurants (and provide some of their select recipes) and the city's unique cultural and culinary ingredients, attributes, charms and eccentricities.
It's now safely in the publisher's hands in the process of becoming a book, which is exciting, especially because the farmers shared so much wonderful information and stories with me along our 7-month research and writing journey. Now that it's submitted, I'm thrilled to be able to jump back into the Charleston restaurant scene (and this blog) with renewed vigor as I start to further research my next cookbook. Without providing too much advance information, suffice to say, it will be about Charleston's great restaurants (and provide some of their select recipes) and the city's unique cultural and culinary ingredients, attributes, charms and eccentricities.
Monday, May 12, 2008
McCrady's Mother's Day Magic
It's been too long, way too long, since I've visited McCrady's. This was my concrete conclusion upon returning home yesterday after savoring a deliriously delicious Mother's Day repast of mystic proportions at impossibly modest prices. Executive chef Sean Brock has proven himself time and time again as a master of all things delicious, beautiful and local. But, to savor the gorgeous goods in the quiet calm of a Sunday afternoon while celebrating an occasion as important as Mother's Day, was a rare and special treat, indeed. And, to put together an ample selection of specialties in three course categories (First Course, Main Course and Dessert Course) for just $50 (tax and gratuity not included), was icing on the proverbial (and ambrosial in pastry chef Winburn Carmack's hands) cake.
At just 2:30 in the afternoon (one of several seatings offered throughout day and into the night), we were greeted by the host and our server with a friendly and most proper "good evening." After saying it for a second time, our server apologized, saying, "Sorry, I'm just so used to working at night." The ensuing two hours of flawless (save a slightly tepid lobster bisque and tired bread) culinary decadence and seamless service, however, offered no cause for reproach, but merely the highest praise.
Sous vide wizardry and hyper precision aside, Brock and Carmack both excel in their artistic theme and visual interpretations of classic preparations and flavor combinations. The results, as in the brilliant spring color palette of the West Coast Halibut with Langston Progress Peas, Carrot Confit, Crispy Pancetta and gorgeous bars of crunchy-topped chocolate tart prepared with Nutella and silky fudge ice cream, were simultaneously fun and sexy. Truly art on a plate, I more than once resisted the urge to break into each fetching presentation, though on each occasion was more than happy I did.
The staff here is to be heralded for going all out on a special occasion without exploiting sensitive budgets on a day where most everyone wants to do the best they can do for Mom . It would be easy to slink into mediocrity during a long afternoon of food production, but Brock and Co. took the high road for a fare price. We, including the guest of honor that was beside herself with the unbridled joy of the experience, were all the better for it.
I just wish it could be Mother's Day everyday at McCrady's. I'll be back the next time a celebration of any day is in order, and it won't be near as long this time. McCrady's makes dining and life feel like a genuine celebration of beauty and goodness.
McCrady's
2 Unity Alley, downtown
(843) 577-0025
Mon.-Thus., 5:30-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.
http://www.mccradysrestaurant.com/
At just 2:30 in the afternoon (one of several seatings offered throughout day and into the night), we were greeted by the host and our server with a friendly and most proper "good evening." After saying it for a second time, our server apologized, saying, "Sorry, I'm just so used to working at night." The ensuing two hours of flawless (save a slightly tepid lobster bisque and tired bread) culinary decadence and seamless service, however, offered no cause for reproach, but merely the highest praise.
Sous vide wizardry and hyper precision aside, Brock and Carmack both excel in their artistic theme and visual interpretations of classic preparations and flavor combinations. The results, as in the brilliant spring color palette of the West Coast Halibut with Langston Progress Peas, Carrot Confit, Crispy Pancetta and gorgeous bars of crunchy-topped chocolate tart prepared with Nutella and silky fudge ice cream, were simultaneously fun and sexy. Truly art on a plate, I more than once resisted the urge to break into each fetching presentation, though on each occasion was more than happy I did.
The staff here is to be heralded for going all out on a special occasion without exploiting sensitive budgets on a day where most everyone wants to do the best they can do for Mom . It would be easy to slink into mediocrity during a long afternoon of food production, but Brock and Co. took the high road for a fare price. We, including the guest of honor that was beside herself with the unbridled joy of the experience, were all the better for it.
I just wish it could be Mother's Day everyday at McCrady's. I'll be back the next time a celebration of any day is in order, and it won't be near as long this time. McCrady's makes dining and life feel like a genuine celebration of beauty and goodness.
McCrady's
2 Unity Alley, downtown
(843) 577-0025
Mon.-Thus., 5:30-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.
http://www.mccradysrestaurant.com/
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