If you know of a "great" eaterie that you think I may not know about, please write and tell me about it. By great, I mean great food. It doesn't have to be expensive or fancy. I'm especially interested in far-reaching places like North Charleston, Summerville and remote segments of Mount Pleasant. Special interests include ethnic restaurants of all varieties.
Thank you for your support. If it passes muster, your suggested restaurant may be rewarded with a profile in "The Charleston Chef's Table Cookbook" coming out in February, 2010.
All the best, Holly
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Monday, September 22, 2008
Oak Set to Branch Out
Long a bastion of big, beefy steaks and correspondingly steep tabs, Oak Steakhouse will add a new menu and more budget-friendly concept sometime in January, if all goes as planned.
Chef/owner Brett McKee originally pondered opening a high-end seafood restaurant next door to Oak at 15 Broad Street, but decided to go back to his New York roots and personal passion for homey, Italian fare. And, instead of opening a new restaurant altogether, he's simply broadening the space, adding up to 35 seats and a new, second-floor banquette facility in the neighboring space.
The "new" Oak will be everything that it already is, just bigger and with more menu choices. McKee has created an alternative menu from the steakhouse's main menu, adding on fifteen Italian mainstays from Baked Lasagna to Roasted Lemon Chicken and a variety of brick oven pizzas, all priced at $15. Theoretically, this menu will be offered to guests on the ground floor only, which already is the least formal, and arguably most popular, of the restaurant's existing three dining areas. "The space dictates the menu," says McKee. "I like the menu, it's the kind of food I like, which means it will be good," he adds.
In yet another nod to the kind of food and environment he grew up around, McKee will also add a new Sunday dinner program that will kick off Sunday, November 2cnd. Intended to appeal to families, the menu will offer three courses priced at $30 per person. Swedish meatballs, root beer floats and orange cream sodas will all be in the offing and will be served in all three levels of the restaurant. The restaurant's signature chocolate booths will soon get a facelift in red leather to reflect the warmer, "affordable comfort food" branch at Oak.
Oak Steakhouse
17 Broad Street, downtown
(843) 722-4220
http://www.oaksteakhouserestaurant.com/
Chef/owner Brett McKee originally pondered opening a high-end seafood restaurant next door to Oak at 15 Broad Street, but decided to go back to his New York roots and personal passion for homey, Italian fare. And, instead of opening a new restaurant altogether, he's simply broadening the space, adding up to 35 seats and a new, second-floor banquette facility in the neighboring space.
The "new" Oak will be everything that it already is, just bigger and with more menu choices. McKee has created an alternative menu from the steakhouse's main menu, adding on fifteen Italian mainstays from Baked Lasagna to Roasted Lemon Chicken and a variety of brick oven pizzas, all priced at $15. Theoretically, this menu will be offered to guests on the ground floor only, which already is the least formal, and arguably most popular, of the restaurant's existing three dining areas. "The space dictates the menu," says McKee. "I like the menu, it's the kind of food I like, which means it will be good," he adds.
In yet another nod to the kind of food and environment he grew up around, McKee will also add a new Sunday dinner program that will kick off Sunday, November 2cnd. Intended to appeal to families, the menu will offer three courses priced at $30 per person. Swedish meatballs, root beer floats and orange cream sodas will all be in the offing and will be served in all three levels of the restaurant. The restaurant's signature chocolate booths will soon get a facelift in red leather to reflect the warmer, "affordable comfort food" branch at Oak.
Oak Steakhouse
17 Broad Street, downtown
(843) 722-4220
http://www.oaksteakhouserestaurant.com/
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Crave's Food Worth Raves
Landen Ganstrom did a fine job flexing his culinary chops with a globally inspired, ambitious and well-executed tapas menu during his tenure at 11 Center Street on Folly. Still, even with excellent food, things never fully came together there. The kitchen was on a different floor than the bulk of the seating area, which regularly led to choppy pacing. Also, it seemed like the owners couldn't decide if their biggest priority was the restaurant or the retail wine shop. As a result, the entire place seemed ambivalent and erratic, which sometimes made me feel like a slightly uncomfortable, albeit well-fed, customer.
Now that 11 Center Street has closed, executive chef Landen Ganstrom has found a new gig at a relatively remote outpost at The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, off the IOP Connector in Mount Pleasant. Crave Kitchen and Cocktails puts his talent to use in another ambitious menu (the current dinner menu includes 34 options, not counting weekly specials) with lunch, brunch, dinner and after-hours seating's. That's a lot to ask, but Ganstrom delivers. Everything sampled during yet another book research dinner was seamless. In fact, it seems like it was all better than I remembered at 11 Center Street.
The large kitchen's location on the same floor of the spacious, airy restaurant and a complete service staff can only help, but Ganstrom and his kitchen staff get the highest marks for flawless delivery. Generally, hummus is just hummus - chickpeas and some tahini and maybe a kick of olive oil, garlic, lemon, or another personalized ingredient - always good, rarely great. Ganstrom's hummus (Greek Dip, $8) was almost hedonistic in its goodness. What is often a too-chunky consistency in hummus was pureed to silk here, but still maintained sufficient girth to adhere to the warm, crisp pita points. The flavors were so artfully interwoven it was impossible for me to break every one down, but the end result was a sweet, smooth, buttery sensation with a mildly acidic finish. A delicate tapenade, rife with the glorious ingredients of the Mediterranean - briny olives, oregano and garlic - was chopped very finely and made the hummus taste even better when the two were combined. A tiny fresh salad with a dusting of feta completed the dish.
When a server recommends fish as ardently as our friendly, young server did, I'm apt to be suspicious the kitchen's trying to move fish that's past its prime. However, something in her sincere nature and the already proven quality ingredients in the Greek Dip, had me biting the line and hook she so convincingly cast for the Sea Bass ($22). Easily the finest piece of fish I've sampled this summer, it sizzled with a buttery pan-sear crunch on both sides. In between, the square of squeaky-fresh fish was clean and milky tasting; the perfect foil to a fried web of string potatoes and a bed of creamy wild mushroom risotto. A sweet/hot chili glaze kicked the mild flavors of the dish into well-balanced high gear. Though I found the Kentucky Bourbon Short Ribs ($18) to be slightly over-sauced with a sweet version of BBQ sauce, the beef ribs were delectable.
Though the server made a few unsubstantiated remarks about the "award winning" She Crab Soup (citing some kind words in City Paper as the source) and an awkward (yet apparently honest) explanation about a misprint on the menu regarding the sole, she was sweet and got the order right and to the table on time, with a smile. Unfortunately, the evening I was there, so was a large, semi-private party of realtor's reveling in and around the bar. Live, loud music that sounded like something you'd hear at a cash bar wedding aggressively spilled over into the dining room, which took away part of the dinner's appeal. Perhaps in the future, weather-allowing, this kind of event might be relocated to the outside patio area or reserved for later at night, after the dinner hour.
For now, the food is exactly where it should be and is a new member on my short list of places to go the next time I crave really, really good food.
Crave Kitchen and Cocktails
1968 Riviera Drive, Unit O
The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 884-1177
http://www.cravemtp.com/
Now that 11 Center Street has closed, executive chef Landen Ganstrom has found a new gig at a relatively remote outpost at The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, off the IOP Connector in Mount Pleasant. Crave Kitchen and Cocktails puts his talent to use in another ambitious menu (the current dinner menu includes 34 options, not counting weekly specials) with lunch, brunch, dinner and after-hours seating's. That's a lot to ask, but Ganstrom delivers. Everything sampled during yet another book research dinner was seamless. In fact, it seems like it was all better than I remembered at 11 Center Street.
The large kitchen's location on the same floor of the spacious, airy restaurant and a complete service staff can only help, but Ganstrom and his kitchen staff get the highest marks for flawless delivery. Generally, hummus is just hummus - chickpeas and some tahini and maybe a kick of olive oil, garlic, lemon, or another personalized ingredient - always good, rarely great. Ganstrom's hummus (Greek Dip, $8) was almost hedonistic in its goodness. What is often a too-chunky consistency in hummus was pureed to silk here, but still maintained sufficient girth to adhere to the warm, crisp pita points. The flavors were so artfully interwoven it was impossible for me to break every one down, but the end result was a sweet, smooth, buttery sensation with a mildly acidic finish. A delicate tapenade, rife with the glorious ingredients of the Mediterranean - briny olives, oregano and garlic - was chopped very finely and made the hummus taste even better when the two were combined. A tiny fresh salad with a dusting of feta completed the dish.
When a server recommends fish as ardently as our friendly, young server did, I'm apt to be suspicious the kitchen's trying to move fish that's past its prime. However, something in her sincere nature and the already proven quality ingredients in the Greek Dip, had me biting the line and hook she so convincingly cast for the Sea Bass ($22). Easily the finest piece of fish I've sampled this summer, it sizzled with a buttery pan-sear crunch on both sides. In between, the square of squeaky-fresh fish was clean and milky tasting; the perfect foil to a fried web of string potatoes and a bed of creamy wild mushroom risotto. A sweet/hot chili glaze kicked the mild flavors of the dish into well-balanced high gear. Though I found the Kentucky Bourbon Short Ribs ($18) to be slightly over-sauced with a sweet version of BBQ sauce, the beef ribs were delectable.
Though the server made a few unsubstantiated remarks about the "award winning" She Crab Soup (citing some kind words in City Paper as the source) and an awkward (yet apparently honest) explanation about a misprint on the menu regarding the sole, she was sweet and got the order right and to the table on time, with a smile. Unfortunately, the evening I was there, so was a large, semi-private party of realtor's reveling in and around the bar. Live, loud music that sounded like something you'd hear at a cash bar wedding aggressively spilled over into the dining room, which took away part of the dinner's appeal. Perhaps in the future, weather-allowing, this kind of event might be relocated to the outside patio area or reserved for later at night, after the dinner hour.
For now, the food is exactly where it should be and is a new member on my short list of places to go the next time I crave really, really good food.
Crave Kitchen and Cocktails
1968 Riviera Drive, Unit O
The Shoppes at Seaside Farms, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 884-1177
http://www.cravemtp.com/
Monday, September 8, 2008
Make New Friends, Keep the Old
This is a lesson I learned way back in my Brownie days. I've consciously tried to remain true to it in all areas of my life (including restaurants) ever since. With so many new restaurants coming onto the Charleston scene of late (has anyone noticed that so many seem to have mono-syllabic, almost primal names like Crave and Fuel?), it's easy to forget about those that have been around for a while. Don't let that happen. Recently, I acquiesced to not one but two very pronounced "crav"ings for two of my favorite comfort foods and was very glad I did.
Sweet Corn
Ben Berryhill's of Red Drum Gastropub version of sweet corn pudding rockets the concept of what is technically a "savory" pudding into an incomparable universe of deliciousness. Typically served with the restaurant's Wood Grilled Salmon, it also soars as a side with the Chicken Enchiladas. The heat from the mole, smoothness of the refried beans and burnt red and chocolate colors of the plated food look and taste even better with the precocious corn husk boat that houses the souffle-like pudding. Each air-infused bite popped with kernels of sugar-sweet corn that tasted like they've been cut from cobs picked just hours ago. The sweetness is tempered with the mildness of eggs and cream to create an indulgence that's worth returning for as often as is humanly possible.
Cheesy Goodness and Crunchy Surprises
One especially lovely morning this past week, as I was planning out my day, it struck. An irrepressible urge to have lunch at Cru Cafe had me in its gustatory grip and wasn't about to let go. So, a little before noon I set out. And, even though I spent several minutes contemplating the menu, I knew exactly what I was there for and why. The Napa Cabbage Chicken Salad (for book research) and the Four Cheese Mac 'n Cheese just for the sheer fun of it. The salad, crunchy and peppered with chef/owner John Zucker's talent for all things Asian, won as a player in the salad chapter of the book (Charleston Chef's Table) and the mac 'n cheese won as what I described to a curious woman as "simply the world's best mac 'n cheese".
The woman, who my money says wasn't from these parts, practically tripped as she gawked, passing my table on the porch where I was quietly reading and eating. "What is that?," she bellowed. Worried I'd done something unspeakable in my overly absorbed state of mind, I tentatively looked up. She was pointing at and practically drooling over my mac 'n cheese as if she hadn't eaten in weeks, which didn't appear to be the case. Needless to say she ordered it. I heard her. Though I wasn't able to stick around and witness her reaction, I'm quite sure she enjoyed it. There is no way anyone, even a lactose-intolerant anyone, could not.
The Red Drum Gastropub
803 Coleman Boulevard, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 849-0313
http://www.reddrumpub.com/
Cru Cafe
18 Pinckney Street, downtown
(853) 534-2434
http://www.crucafe.com/
Sweet Corn
Ben Berryhill's of Red Drum Gastropub version of sweet corn pudding rockets the concept of what is technically a "savory" pudding into an incomparable universe of deliciousness. Typically served with the restaurant's Wood Grilled Salmon, it also soars as a side with the Chicken Enchiladas. The heat from the mole, smoothness of the refried beans and burnt red and chocolate colors of the plated food look and taste even better with the precocious corn husk boat that houses the souffle-like pudding. Each air-infused bite popped with kernels of sugar-sweet corn that tasted like they've been cut from cobs picked just hours ago. The sweetness is tempered with the mildness of eggs and cream to create an indulgence that's worth returning for as often as is humanly possible.
Cheesy Goodness and Crunchy Surprises
One especially lovely morning this past week, as I was planning out my day, it struck. An irrepressible urge to have lunch at Cru Cafe had me in its gustatory grip and wasn't about to let go. So, a little before noon I set out. And, even though I spent several minutes contemplating the menu, I knew exactly what I was there for and why. The Napa Cabbage Chicken Salad (for book research) and the Four Cheese Mac 'n Cheese just for the sheer fun of it. The salad, crunchy and peppered with chef/owner John Zucker's talent for all things Asian, won as a player in the salad chapter of the book (Charleston Chef's Table) and the mac 'n cheese won as what I described to a curious woman as "simply the world's best mac 'n cheese".
The woman, who my money says wasn't from these parts, practically tripped as she gawked, passing my table on the porch where I was quietly reading and eating. "What is that?," she bellowed. Worried I'd done something unspeakable in my overly absorbed state of mind, I tentatively looked up. She was pointing at and practically drooling over my mac 'n cheese as if she hadn't eaten in weeks, which didn't appear to be the case. Needless to say she ordered it. I heard her. Though I wasn't able to stick around and witness her reaction, I'm quite sure she enjoyed it. There is no way anyone, even a lactose-intolerant anyone, could not.
The Red Drum Gastropub
803 Coleman Boulevard, Mt. Pleasant
(843) 849-0313
http://www.reddrumpub.com/
Cru Cafe
18 Pinckney Street, downtown
(853) 534-2434
http://www.crucafe.com/
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Dinner and a Movie
A more soothing combination of words and concepts has seldom been conceived than "dinner and a movie". And, few things go better with a movie than a good dinner and a glass of good wine - unless you count expertly popped popcorn - which, sadly, is even harder to find than dinner and a movie served in a theater.
We had to wait eight long years since the demise of the "original" American Theater on King Street to get another dinner and a movie cinema in greater Charleston. (By original, I refer to the cozy cinema grill period before the owners stripped it of its dining personality and table-side service by installing stadium seats and an over-priced counter full of average food and mostly sullen service).
It was a sad farewell, indeed. The latest Charleston-area cinematic incumbent is called Cinebarre. At barely a month old, its initial performance for this attendee was less than Oscar-worthy. The black and silver stage felt vacuous and cold; literally, like a black hole. I had the impression that I was sinking under the weight of it, suffocated by its impersonal hugeness and manufactured, corporate mood. A small army of friendly, young and capable servers clad all in white did well to mitigate the frigidity of the atmosphere, but overall I feel like the space (formerly Movies at Mount Pleasant) is already as badly in need of a face-lift as Joan Rivers isn't in need of yet another. If they go that route, I hope they'll scrap at least half of the huge movie posters that lilt and pop jarringly from virtually every angle like scary characters in a psychedelic dream.
Better things lurked within our actual theater. As mentioned, the staff was friendly and very helpful in navigating a potentially complicated and intrusive food ordering and delivery system and they did it in a very timely (all of 20 minutes from start to finish) manner. However, one poor woman had to explain the menu and the ordering process (she takes your order before the movie, the food is delivered, if you want anything else you put a white piece of paper in a vertical position, and they bring the bill before the credits) over the literal roar of a pre-movie tidbit of a Rifle Man brief. The black and white images on the big screen seemed to tremble in the wake of the domineering decibel factor. The server offered to look into getting the volume turned down, but as far as I could tell, that never took place. I swear, even Beethoven's hearing could be restored here, at least for the duration of a movie.
Only five people were in our particular theater for an afternoon showing of The Dark Knight. It would be interesting to see if the service is as smooth, fast and unobtrusive in the event of a full house, especially in all eleven theaters. That would be a true coup! A call to the general manager to inquire about the identity/experience of the chef here was not returned, but I've got to expect he or she has an extensive banquet background to put out that much food that fast.
The food, from a menu composed of appetizers, burgers, sandwiches and pizza, was adequate but far from show-stopping or original (not unlike the fact that all of them are named after classic movies or variations on classic characters). One of the more cleverly named items, The Sgt. Pepper stuffed jalapeno peppers ($6), tasted and looked very much like they were pre-assembled and frozen, but were served golden and hot from the fryer and made for satisfying movie munching in-between bites of Heath Ledger's deliciously dark portrayal of The Joker. Cinebarre gets credit for serving a generous and respectable burger and fries (Blue Velvet, $8.50) and its interpretation of a Philly Cheese ($9). Like the peppers, they were hot and heaping, and tasted well with a glass of Chardonnay from the cinema's selection of 12 wines, served by the glass ($4.50-$7) and bottle ($20-$26). Beer and cocktails are also offered, seven days a week, which trumps The Terrace's current no-liquor-Sunday tradition.
Cinebarre is intended to be quiet (someone please turn down the volume!) and sophisticated. As such, it has some more than welcome rules - children under 17 must be accompanied by an adult, and no cell phones or loud talking are allowed.
Cinebarre
963 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 216-2690 - main line
(843) 884-7885 - movie line
http://www.cinnebarre.com/
We had to wait eight long years since the demise of the "original" American Theater on King Street to get another dinner and a movie cinema in greater Charleston. (By original, I refer to the cozy cinema grill period before the owners stripped it of its dining personality and table-side service by installing stadium seats and an over-priced counter full of average food and mostly sullen service).
It was a sad farewell, indeed. The latest Charleston-area cinematic incumbent is called Cinebarre. At barely a month old, its initial performance for this attendee was less than Oscar-worthy. The black and silver stage felt vacuous and cold; literally, like a black hole. I had the impression that I was sinking under the weight of it, suffocated by its impersonal hugeness and manufactured, corporate mood. A small army of friendly, young and capable servers clad all in white did well to mitigate the frigidity of the atmosphere, but overall I feel like the space (formerly Movies at Mount Pleasant) is already as badly in need of a face-lift as Joan Rivers isn't in need of yet another. If they go that route, I hope they'll scrap at least half of the huge movie posters that lilt and pop jarringly from virtually every angle like scary characters in a psychedelic dream.
Better things lurked within our actual theater. As mentioned, the staff was friendly and very helpful in navigating a potentially complicated and intrusive food ordering and delivery system and they did it in a very timely (all of 20 minutes from start to finish) manner. However, one poor woman had to explain the menu and the ordering process (she takes your order before the movie, the food is delivered, if you want anything else you put a white piece of paper in a vertical position, and they bring the bill before the credits) over the literal roar of a pre-movie tidbit of a Rifle Man brief. The black and white images on the big screen seemed to tremble in the wake of the domineering decibel factor. The server offered to look into getting the volume turned down, but as far as I could tell, that never took place. I swear, even Beethoven's hearing could be restored here, at least for the duration of a movie.
Only five people were in our particular theater for an afternoon showing of The Dark Knight. It would be interesting to see if the service is as smooth, fast and unobtrusive in the event of a full house, especially in all eleven theaters. That would be a true coup! A call to the general manager to inquire about the identity/experience of the chef here was not returned, but I've got to expect he or she has an extensive banquet background to put out that much food that fast.
The food, from a menu composed of appetizers, burgers, sandwiches and pizza, was adequate but far from show-stopping or original (not unlike the fact that all of them are named after classic movies or variations on classic characters). One of the more cleverly named items, The Sgt. Pepper stuffed jalapeno peppers ($6), tasted and looked very much like they were pre-assembled and frozen, but were served golden and hot from the fryer and made for satisfying movie munching in-between bites of Heath Ledger's deliciously dark portrayal of The Joker. Cinebarre gets credit for serving a generous and respectable burger and fries (Blue Velvet, $8.50) and its interpretation of a Philly Cheese ($9). Like the peppers, they were hot and heaping, and tasted well with a glass of Chardonnay from the cinema's selection of 12 wines, served by the glass ($4.50-$7) and bottle ($20-$26). Beer and cocktails are also offered, seven days a week, which trumps The Terrace's current no-liquor-Sunday tradition.
Cinebarre is intended to be quiet (someone please turn down the volume!) and sophisticated. As such, it has some more than welcome rules - children under 17 must be accompanied by an adult, and no cell phones or loud talking are allowed.
Cinebarre
963 Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant
(843) 216-2690 - main line
(843) 884-7885 - movie line
http://www.cinnebarre.com/
Monday, July 21, 2008
The Return of Enzo
Enzo Steffenelli, the petite Swiss with a big smile, is back in the kitchen after a brief stint selling printers (this according to his marketing communications manager, Elizabeth Kelly).
He's crossed the street from his longtime haunt, the Sea Island Grill, and set up shop at the two month-old (The) Lettered Olive restaurant. Still loyal to Wild Dunes Resort, Steffenelli's latest restaurant is decidedly more casual and family friendly than the grill and bears the sandy, seashore palette of its name, which happens to be South Carolina's official state seashell. Airy, spacious and attractive, The Lettered Olive attracts a feisty, familial crowd, so be prepared to deal with the occasional toddler's temper tantrum and not-so-hushed tsk tsk's of a frustrated mom or two.
Steffenelli's expansive, well-executed menu of sophisticated mainstays with a European twist will distract you from the noise into a quiet, well-sated place at a fair price. Indeed, entrees range from the low $20's to a somewhat steep mid $30's, but the portions are so fantastically large, and the quality of the food so high, potential wallet pain is instantly mitigated.
The chef explores the globe, dipping into the Lowcountry, the Caribbean, Italy, France and Asia for inspiration and offering everything from oak fired flatbreads to a gorgeous and gargantuan Half Asian Five Spice Duck with Orange-Green Peppercorn Sauce ($25). Another equally large and visually impressive dish (I did not taste this) is the Charleston Red Rice, a virtual platter of the Lowcountry favorite topped with a seafood cornucopia of shrimp, mussels, scallops and lobster ($32). Entrees include a choice of two sides from a selection of eight. A basil-rich, fresh-from-the-garden Mediterranean ratatouille was smashing; so, too the "best ever" mac n' cheese. It was crunchy with bread crumbs and butter and smooth with just the right amount of cheese.
Service fluttered about the large space with maximum efficiency. Combining solid food, easy parking and Steffenelli's proven talent, The Lettered Olive makes a series of compelling arguments for a most rewarding dining experience. And, that's not just for tourists.
The Lettered Olive
Wild Dunes Resort, Isle of Palms
(843) 577-9100
http://www.wilddunes.com/
He's crossed the street from his longtime haunt, the Sea Island Grill, and set up shop at the two month-old (The) Lettered Olive restaurant. Still loyal to Wild Dunes Resort, Steffenelli's latest restaurant is decidedly more casual and family friendly than the grill and bears the sandy, seashore palette of its name, which happens to be South Carolina's official state seashell. Airy, spacious and attractive, The Lettered Olive attracts a feisty, familial crowd, so be prepared to deal with the occasional toddler's temper tantrum and not-so-hushed tsk tsk's of a frustrated mom or two.
Steffenelli's expansive, well-executed menu of sophisticated mainstays with a European twist will distract you from the noise into a quiet, well-sated place at a fair price. Indeed, entrees range from the low $20's to a somewhat steep mid $30's, but the portions are so fantastically large, and the quality of the food so high, potential wallet pain is instantly mitigated.
The chef explores the globe, dipping into the Lowcountry, the Caribbean, Italy, France and Asia for inspiration and offering everything from oak fired flatbreads to a gorgeous and gargantuan Half Asian Five Spice Duck with Orange-Green Peppercorn Sauce ($25). Another equally large and visually impressive dish (I did not taste this) is the Charleston Red Rice, a virtual platter of the Lowcountry favorite topped with a seafood cornucopia of shrimp, mussels, scallops and lobster ($32). Entrees include a choice of two sides from a selection of eight. A basil-rich, fresh-from-the-garden Mediterranean ratatouille was smashing; so, too the "best ever" mac n' cheese. It was crunchy with bread crumbs and butter and smooth with just the right amount of cheese.
Service fluttered about the large space with maximum efficiency. Combining solid food, easy parking and Steffenelli's proven talent, The Lettered Olive makes a series of compelling arguments for a most rewarding dining experience. And, that's not just for tourists.
The Lettered Olive
Wild Dunes Resort, Isle of Palms
(843) 577-9100
http://www.wilddunes.com/
Monday, July 7, 2008
In Between Sets
This weekend's serving of Wimbledon tennis was bigger and better than a heaping bowl of fresh strawberries and clotted cream at The All England Club. Between the Williams' sister act and the nail-biting drama of Rafa and Roger's epic five-hour showdown (not counting rain delays) it was enough to build up a serious appetite for adrenaline-subduing sustenance. But what true little-yellow-ball-watching- addict can pull herself away from the television set?
Not this one, so on Saturday morning I decided to follow up on a previous visit to the newly minted, curiously named Caviar & Bananas and order several items for delivery (free, downtown for all orders $20 or more) to my front door. My initial gustatory foray there was, shall we say, less than ripely rewarding, so this seemed like a prime time to follow through on fairness.
Though Caviar & Bananas, with all its sparkling stainless steel shelving, white walls, and gourmet goods, delivers a strong (albeit not entirely original) cosmopolitan show and ample food choices (sandwiches, salads, over 50 prepared foods and coffee), on my first visit it proved thin in some areas. Namely, the sandwiches. The roast beef, onion confit special I ordered ($9) was way too lean for the money and heavy on grilled bread. Also, at this station (like the others), there seemed to be real confusion on the part of the many customers about ordering and payment procedures. At one point, there were nine people standing around and one guy with a note pad taking orders while he squeezed in making and issuing sandwiches whenever possible.
Owned by a young husband/wife team who share a yen for and experience in good food with an able-bodied executive chef at the helm, the young restaurant/store likely has a bright future. A centrally positioned host/hostess might help minimize the ordering and payment confusion to novice diners here and also make it feel more like the truly neighborhood place it is trying to be and its central COC-based location virtually mandates.
The food I ordered for delivery (free for downtown for orders $20 and over) on Saturday to make it through the Williams' match came within twenty minutes and was personally delivered by co-owner Kris Furniss, which I thought reflected sincere interest in customer service - always a great thing. Wrapped up in neat little white boxes and sealed with logo stickers for a grand total of $38, all the food was solid, but nothing was remarkable. Notable winners included the flavorful Israeli Couscous Salad and Roasted Beet-Goat Cheese Salad. The Pomegranate-Cinnamon Lacquered Duck, Poached Salmon and Chicken Tagine faltered on various seasoning and cooking temperature fronts.
For these prices, Caviar & Bananas is going to have to dig a little bit deeper to find its best service groove. Fully aware of Ulak's talents (he described his broad Prepared Food Selections as a complete representation of his culinary professional career), I'm confident they'll get there. I'm guessing such an expansive menu is putting some hefty demands on maximum quality control that will get rectified in time. In the meantime, Caviar & Bananas is to be lauded for being the cleanest and most savory smelling restaurant I've entered in a long time.
Moving on to Sunday, huge kudos to the stellar service staff, lush setting and multi-stationed Sunday brunch buffet at Grill 225 for making time I was reluctantly required to spend away from the Rafa/Roger match well worth the investment. For $39 per person, with a complementary glass of "Champagne" (well, it's "California" Champagne, but still a nice touch), this is undoubtedly the most sophisticated brunch downtown. The private, quiet confines of the chocolate velvet-padded booths are a delight, and so too are classic treats like baked ham and an endless array of well-executed, ever-changing warm plates and crepe bar. Loosen your buckle a bit and go ahead and dig into pastry chef Gerry Elliot's best-ever pecan pie with a big dollop of whipped cream. Fresh, rustic-style, flaky pastry, mounds of fresh pecans and a slightly sweet, toasted filling make it as unique and unforgettable as the match I almost missed, and likely those strawberries and cream, too.
Caviar & Bananas
51 George Street, Downtown
(843) 577-7757
http://www.caviarandbananas.com/
Grill 225
225 East Bay Street, downtown
(843) 266-4222
http://www.grill225.com/
Not this one, so on Saturday morning I decided to follow up on a previous visit to the newly minted, curiously named Caviar & Bananas and order several items for delivery (free, downtown for all orders $20 or more) to my front door. My initial gustatory foray there was, shall we say, less than ripely rewarding, so this seemed like a prime time to follow through on fairness.
Though Caviar & Bananas, with all its sparkling stainless steel shelving, white walls, and gourmet goods, delivers a strong (albeit not entirely original) cosmopolitan show and ample food choices (sandwiches, salads, over 50 prepared foods and coffee), on my first visit it proved thin in some areas. Namely, the sandwiches. The roast beef, onion confit special I ordered ($9) was way too lean for the money and heavy on grilled bread. Also, at this station (like the others), there seemed to be real confusion on the part of the many customers about ordering and payment procedures. At one point, there were nine people standing around and one guy with a note pad taking orders while he squeezed in making and issuing sandwiches whenever possible.
Owned by a young husband/wife team who share a yen for and experience in good food with an able-bodied executive chef at the helm, the young restaurant/store likely has a bright future. A centrally positioned host/hostess might help minimize the ordering and payment confusion to novice diners here and also make it feel more like the truly neighborhood place it is trying to be and its central COC-based location virtually mandates.
The food I ordered for delivery (free for downtown for orders $20 and over) on Saturday to make it through the Williams' match came within twenty minutes and was personally delivered by co-owner Kris Furniss, which I thought reflected sincere interest in customer service - always a great thing. Wrapped up in neat little white boxes and sealed with logo stickers for a grand total of $38, all the food was solid, but nothing was remarkable. Notable winners included the flavorful Israeli Couscous Salad and Roasted Beet-Goat Cheese Salad. The Pomegranate-Cinnamon Lacquered Duck, Poached Salmon and Chicken Tagine faltered on various seasoning and cooking temperature fronts.
For these prices, Caviar & Bananas is going to have to dig a little bit deeper to find its best service groove. Fully aware of Ulak's talents (he described his broad Prepared Food Selections as a complete representation of his culinary professional career), I'm confident they'll get there. I'm guessing such an expansive menu is putting some hefty demands on maximum quality control that will get rectified in time. In the meantime, Caviar & Bananas is to be lauded for being the cleanest and most savory smelling restaurant I've entered in a long time.
Moving on to Sunday, huge kudos to the stellar service staff, lush setting and multi-stationed Sunday brunch buffet at Grill 225 for making time I was reluctantly required to spend away from the Rafa/Roger match well worth the investment. For $39 per person, with a complementary glass of "Champagne" (well, it's "California" Champagne, but still a nice touch), this is undoubtedly the most sophisticated brunch downtown. The private, quiet confines of the chocolate velvet-padded booths are a delight, and so too are classic treats like baked ham and an endless array of well-executed, ever-changing warm plates and crepe bar. Loosen your buckle a bit and go ahead and dig into pastry chef Gerry Elliot's best-ever pecan pie with a big dollop of whipped cream. Fresh, rustic-style, flaky pastry, mounds of fresh pecans and a slightly sweet, toasted filling make it as unique and unforgettable as the match I almost missed, and likely those strawberries and cream, too.
Caviar & Bananas
51 George Street, Downtown
(843) 577-7757
http://www.caviarandbananas.com/
Grill 225
225 East Bay Street, downtown
(843) 266-4222
http://www.grill225.com/
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