Like the shifting sands of time and fickle nature of fashion, Folly Beach continues to morph and change with the ongoing evolution (or de-evolution depending on whom you ask) of Charleston. Nowhere is that more evident than in the Edge of America's restaurant scene, which has gone from offering a series of beachcomber shacks and oyster joints, to becoming a virtual restaurant renaissance destination. Gone are Anchor Line and The Terrapin - enter the sophisticated waves from Blu and the bodacious burgers from Rita's across the street.
Most everyone resists change, especially at this beloved Bohemian beach and surfer land, but the addition of Rita's will be a welcome one by any red-blooded American lover of great, beefy burgers. These are drip-to-your-elbows stacks of decadence on a (slightly too soft) bun. The burgers are 10 ounce, hand-formed patties of Angus beef that are charbroiled to your preferred temperature (and at your own risk, as stated on the campy menu).The smoky, crust of the char grill recalls Burger King, but the over-the-top toppings knock these burgers well into the gorgeous, gourmet ballpark.
The Cantina Burger ($9.50) is fattened with charred red onion, jack cheese and guacamole while the Reuben Burger ($10) rolls out on rye bread with corned beef, kraut, Swiss cheese and 1000 island dressing. Bring it on! I sampled and immediately fell in love with the Southbound Burger ($9) which is simply topped with smooth, mild house-made pimiento and slabs of apple-smoked bacon. Add the fresh slivers of red onion, tomato and lettuce, and this baby was a mouthful! Shy appetites or modest eaters need to apply. A pile of hot, but otherwise forgettable fries rounds out the platters.
The restaurant also serves an array of salads, sandwiches and seafood platters, that I have not yet sampled. The latter (all about $13) looked and smelled delicious, ample and local. Still, there is something about sea air, which flows in and around through an open deck and open windows, that brings out big appetites for big, delicious burgers, and that's exactly what Rita's delivers. The prices flirt with the edge of being high for the Edge of America audience, but in my opinion, the size and quality of the ingredients in the burgers make up for it. Service is young, friendly and slightly erratic.
Next time you're craving a burger, Rita's the place to be on the beach.
Rita's Seaside Grille
2 Center Street, Folly Beach
(843) 588-2525